If you are a returning reader of Monochrome or when you have seen our video reviews on YouTube, you will probably know that we will tend to stay quite neutral. Why? Because we believe that they are wise enough to make their own judgment … but today I am, to say the least, be a little biased. After all, all members of the team are awake enthusiasts. We love watches in general, but as you can imagine, we all have our preferences. Today we will take a closer look at the new 38 -MM -BREGUET type XX Chronograph 2075 for the 250th anniversary.
An edition of the late 1990s of the 3rd generation Breguet Type XX 3800st
For me, the Breguet Type 20 or Type XX and all other watches based on the type 20 specification are part of my favorites ever. I have a very personal connection to this watch, not only because I am French. Yes, I'm a bit chauvinistic here … I am French after all, what do you expect? The real reason is on my wrist while I write this article and it is my personal clock: a Type XX reference 3800 from the 90s, and it is a family heritage that I appreciate. I also spent a lot of time to study the history of Type 20 and to learn long discussions with Emmanuel Breguet, one of the descendants of Abraham-Louis Breguet, about this collection. So yes, sorry, but this review becomes more enthusiastic than normal. Why because Breguet's latest publications in his pilot collection are simply breathtaking … but also promising what is expected in the future.
Unsigned, early Breguet type 20 for military use with corrugated bezel, pear-shaped crown and 2-counter dial.
A civil version of the Breguet Type XX with engraved 12-hour bezel, flat crown, three-register Big-Eye display, alpha-hands and signed dial.
I will not create the entire history of type 20 here. So here is a short memory, the type 20 is not exclusively for Breguet. It was actually the code name for a number of specifications defined by the French Air Force. They wanted to equip their pilots with a black dial chronograph with return en Vol (flyback) and rotating bezel. Several companies accepted and won contracts, which meant that several brands Type XX and Type 20 o'clock would produce dodans, auricoste, mathy-dissot, air tram, Vixa and of course Breguet. For the latter, the prototypes submitted by the company in 1952 were approved by the service technology Aéronautique in 1953. In 1954, the French Air Force gave an arrangement for 1,100 Military Type 20 o'clock, which were delivered between 1955 and 1959.
The Breguet Type 20 and Type XX of the 4. Generation with automatic movement, date and 42 mm diameter.
Now let's take a look at the modern history of Breguet Type XX. The classic 3800 was discontinued at the end of 2010, and the replacement took place in 2023. High-tech watches with a new automatic movement of 42 mm. It was launched in two versions, a militarily inspired type 20 with BI compax dial and corrugated bezel and a type XX inspired by civilians with a tri-compax dial and a graded bezel. And yes, that was probably not exactly what hardcore enthusiasts like I expected. The date window on the dial felt unnecessary, the 42 -mm diameter too big, the movement almost too technical. Basically, the collectors expected a commercial version of the unique pieces, which were only made for Watch 2019 and 2021 … pure new vintage new editions with a compact housing and a hand-produced movement, as you can see below.
But we are now in 2025 and two important things have to be taken into account. First, Breguet has a new CEO, Gregory Kissling, who has a deep understanding of the clock manufacturing, but also what the collectors would like to have on the wrists. Second, it is the brand's 250th anniversary. And part of a wide collection that is published all year round, we have these two new models Type XX. And they look stunning, especially the black dial version!
First of all, yes, these are golden watches. BREGUET GOLD sees the proprietary alloy of the brand, which will be on all watches for the 250th anniversary. In this regard, they appreciate extremely rare prototypes that were produced in 1955 with a gold case.
For this year's celebrations, Breguet not only publishes one, but two watches. One as a tribute to the past, the other as a more unusual setting of the concept with a surprising dial. And what matters is that the original concept of the 4th generation of Type XX, which was released in 2023, was revised! Why? Because we look at two drastically reduced, rounded, rounded, streamlined watches with historical proportions and a hand -produced movement … this is what I wanted to see from day one.
Let's start with the case shared by both expenses, which retains the classic look of civil watches of civil types of the 1950s with a bidirectional bezel with a 12-hour scale and short Twisted lugs. The connection with the past is becoming proportional, since the two new models now only measure a diameter of 38.3 mm, just like the old watches and the two unique parts only for the clock. Despite a thick-box-sapphire crystal, the thickness was reduced to 13.2 mm (compared to 14.1 mm for the automatic 42 mm models). This is the same thickness as a Speedmaster Moonwatch and actually looks even thinner on the wrist! Compact, retro style, comfortable, short … Fantastic. In short, at the case we have been waiting for with the 4th generation of type XX.
The housing made of 18 karat Breguet gold-a combination of gold with silver, copper and palladium is satin with polished accents, has a screwed housing with sapphire crystal, a flat crown and is waterproof up to 50 m. The only difference between the two outputs with regard to the case is the digits on the bezel, in black on the undefined black output and in blue on the limited Silver model.
Let us talk about what differs the most between the two editions. First both the date window on the dial will be started. The most spoken version, and the most appealing is the black output. Why? Because it is the classic look of a type XX … it is predictable, but it looks the same as it should. The basis of the dial is made of anodized aluminum. It's pure black, but with the gold cover it feels almost dark brown. For this issue, Breguet selected a layout with two registers with the emblematic large eye switch at 3 a.m. And it is as classic as it can be. The hands, also in gold, are spray -shaped and the smaller minute hand is pear -shaped and bright. And the tiny switch is every 3 minutes with large shining markings for 15 minutes. Yes, it's a bit strange, but that is part of the charm of type XX. And they will find all -round classic bright digits in beige. It is super clean and only the created Breguet logo reminds you of the origin of the watch.
The second model is a little more surprising because it is not based on a historical version. The dial is made to 250 pieces of solid silver with a brushed silver color and an unprecedented layout for the pilot's chronograph. We have framed staff marks, subcontracts of the same size and the dial through a tachymeter scale. The hands are also different, it has a 30-minute meter and the central seconds are hidden to meet the transfers on the dial, and there is a “Retour en Vol” mention (French for Flyback). This is certainly a very good -looking clock, and I am sure that some will love you. But I'm a bit of a snob and I really prefer the original appearance of the black model.
If you now turn around the watch, you will see a new movement. Or more precisely a revised version of the automatic movement in the larger models. Except that it is now hand -wound and thinner. The Black Edition is delivered with caliber 7279, and the silver model has caliber 7278 (the difference is the 15-minute and 30-minute meter). It is a fine modern movement with a 5-Hz frequency with high attention and a silicon hair jump and a escape bike. The chronograph is controlled by a column wheel and a vertical coupling, and the power reserve is rated after 60 hours.
For the celebrations, the movements in Breguet Gold are gold-plated, and the main platform meat was recorded by hand with a Breguet aircraft in the full flight. A tribute to the other side of the Breguet family. Both versions of the Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 are worn on a leather strap with a golden Breguet needle buckle. And yes, you have a price. The black one is inexpensive EUR 42,800 EUR and the silver at 44,600 EUR. This is more than twice as high as the price of the 42 -mm steel models.
Thoughts
But let me end this article for a proposal for Breguet … there is no doubt that the black model is a winner. It looks fantastic and is fantastic, is compact, quite thin and it feels like the modern type XX that I have been waiting for years. And the Silver Edition is also very appealing. So, please Breguet, please Mister Kissling, make a non-precious metal version with a less decorated movement inside, perhaps even a closed fallback, at a reasonable price. It will be a commercial success! And that will also make me a very happy man.
For one last grade, Gregory Kissling said these two things in the recording. First, he said that the collection would develop in terms of diameter, surfaces and materials. Second, his answer was when he was asked about a potential version in a more affordable material, “stay tuned!” I can only say that I am very coordinated. For more information, see Breguet.com.
https://monochrome-watches.com/up-close-personal-type-type-xx-chronograph-2075-38mm-250th-neiers-wound-review-price/