It is not every day when we can learn and share news about potentially groundbreaking new watch concepts. But today we have something very special, and what is even more satisfactory, it is made with Dutch! The autodidactic watchmaker Machiel Hulsman presents his latest concept watch and resigns from uniquely constructed and processed tailor -made parts. Although it still exists digitally, its first-class Hulsman clock in relation to the ingenuity does not let a little down, since it is equipped with a practically foolproof QP movement. Accompany us while throwing the first light on the new Hulsman Easy Perpetual.
The eternal calendar complication is one of the holy grails in watchmaking, an extremely complex that becomes master and even test the most experienced and experienced watchmakers. Historically speaking, the first portable QP time recipient Thomas Mudge, who created pocket watch No. 525 in 1762. When the technology continued, others improved to Mudge's concept or developed their own. The first QPS worn by wrist only came into reality in 1925 when Patek Philippe introduced the reference 97975 with a modified Victorin Piguett movement. Breguet also plays in this area of complexity, since it is attributed to the creation of the first eternal calendar movement, which was specially developed for a wrist tub with the reference 2516. Although history is far more denser and complex than this brief overview, we leave it for the time being. There are many more details for those interested!
But what is an eternal calendar or in French, a Quantiéme -Perpetual (or QP) -he watch? Simply put, it should not only show time, but also a calendar complication with the weekday, the date, the month, the leap year and possibly a moon phase. It should take the length of the months into account and adapt to February depending on 30 or 31 days and even 29 days in February without any corrections. Some brands take the freedom to leave out one or two of these notes, but essentially they work immediately.
How does the Hulsman perpetual calendar differ? Not in terms of functions. With regard to the construction, display and, above all, attitude and reliability, it should be a big step forward! For the beginning, an eternal calendar movement is notoriously fragile and challenging to run precisely. It often takes several corrators to adapt the date or the weekday if you can no longer run for any time. There is also the potential risk of needing professional help, in other words, a watchmaker in order to set them up properly. Some solutions from crowns and corrators in the fall band will definitely help, but it's always pretty much anger.
The Hulsman Easy Perpetual doesn't need any of it! It uses a rather compact and clever configuration of parts to not only remove corrators, but also the things up to the point where you only have to set up the right date, and the rest will automatically follow! The system even prevents incorrect settings between the date and time settings in the crown, which prevents damage to the movement in the process. So that's the fragility covered, but how about the lightness of the attitude?
As explained by Machiel, the crown has three positions. The first is to wrap and only goes in one way. The second serves to define the time that can be done in both directions. The third and final position is for the calendar setting, which can also take place in both directions, whereby a complete turn of the crown can move the date forward or backwards by 4 positions. A special system ensures that the date is set correctly. If not, the setting site does not leave it when the crown is pushed back. It is also not possible to move back to the changing position from the setting if the date is not set up correctly (halfway between two data). This means that no cumbersome corrections are neither due to installations or the crown, and theoretically, they can give their 8-year-olds without concern that he or she messes up the indications.
The manually wounded movement is also equipped with several other clever functions and features. It uses specially developed prisms to project the day of the week and the month in the case band vertically and at the same time show the reverse windows from the front. The pointer date in the outer periphery jumps past these windows from 4th to 5th and then from 7th to 8th.
Then there is a few apertures with a day/night information on the right side and a special winding indicator on the left. This becomes orange and then at the end of the movement reserve of the movement red and signals that it must be wounded again. What is also a very nice gesture is the Sapphire Balance Wheel Bridge, which apparently swims in the air. On the back you will find the leap year to complete the QP displays.
All of this is a surprisingly compact housing with a diameter of 39 mm and a height of 9.5 mm with hollow and made of white, red or yellow gold cave. The dial is structured with several elements, with the central section being adjustable. You can have it ended with a Guilloché pattern, which consists of transparent or tinted sapphire, opt for a piece of meteorite or natural stone. The outer ring, which is completed here blue, can be colored according to your request. The date figures can also be changed if you want and the watch becomes even more personal. The signature lesson and the tiny hands that can already be seen on the Marie-Elise and the tourbillon. And yes, you suspected that you can be heat -bone -beading with any color in the spectrum (blue, purple, yellow, brown, etc.).
The Hulsman Easy Perpetual receives a number of only 12 parts, all of which are offered by a model by Montre de Souscription, i.e. only per subscription. The price is determined EUR 138,000 excl. VAT. This is certainly a large amount of money, but it promises to be an unprecedented, reliable, user -friendly and reader of constant calendars! And of course that is worth something! For what it is worth, we are very excited to see it personally as soon as it is finished and go into details, especially in this brilliant QP mechanism!
You can find more information at Hulsman-Timepieces.com.
https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-machiel-hulsay-perpetual-calendar-montrre-souscription-dutch-made-intent-Watchmaker-specspecpics/