Many companies have that one model that really epitomises the brand, even if it’s not the flagship product. Toyota has the Camry, Omega has the Speedmaster, and Rolex has the Datejust (you thought I was going to say Submariner). It’s among the longest running models in Rolex’s portfolio and boasts many of the signature features – classic Oyster case, cyclops lens over the date window, (optional) fluted bezel, Jubilee or Oyster bracelet and timeless, versatile aesthetic. When many think of the quintessential Rolex look, the Datejust comes to mind. First introduced in 1945, it’s the “workhorse” model that continues to perfectly represent the brand with a design that complements black tie attire and thrives on a weekend at the beach, and everything in between.
A historical advert of 1945 presenting the features of this new Datejust model
The Datejust launched on Rolex’s 40th anniversary and was a game-changer at the time, and countless brands have since copied the aesthetic. For starters, it was the first automatic watch with a date window at 3 o’clock that automatically changed at midnight with no fuss (although not yet instantaneously). It’s certainly something we take for granted today. It also introduced the now iconic Jubilee bracelet and later a cyclops lens to magnify the date. Over the decades, there were multiple sizes, metal combinations and seemingly countless dial variations, so we’ll focus on the core references to keep this article manageable. Also, some references will be excluded as changes were somewhat arbitrary, and to again keep the length manageable.
Introduction of the Date Complication
The Datejust wasn’t the first watch to feature a date complication. In fact, they appeared in one form or another on pocket watches from the early 1800s, although a perpetual calendar watch in 1762 from Thomas Mudge likely had the earliest date function. Interestingly, repeaters and moon phase complications debuted even before the date. As far as wristwatches, Movado introduced the first date window on a dial (at least on a production model) in 1915, while watchmaker A. Hammerly patented a pointer date in the same year (with a day of the week aperture). Mimo (of Girard Perregaux) introduced the Mimo-Meter in the 1930s, the first watch with a traditional date window at 3 o’clock that further popularised the complication. It was the Datejust, however, that really brought the date window to the mainstream with its automatically changing date at midnight, coupled with an automatic chronometer movement.
Datejust Jubilee, Ref. 4467 (1945 – 1949)
The Datejust again marked the 40th anniversary of Rolex with a 36mm, 18k yellow gold Oyster case, coin-edge fluted bezel and date window at 3 o’clock (without cyclops lens). It also introduced the five-piece Jubilee bracelet (as the word jubilee represents a special anniversary), and although not in its final form, the Datejust formula took the industry by storm as it was the first automatic wristwatch with a date window that automatically changed. The relatively large calibre 710 necessitated a domed or “Big Bubbleback” case back, which was larger and more bulbous than the common Bubbleback Rolex models at the time. It even earned the nickname “Ovettone” (Italian for big egg) as the case back with a domed crystal kind of resembled an egg, at least to some. The off-white dial featured applied gold pointed dagger indices with radium dots and gold alpha hands with radium inserts (safer tritium wasn’t a thing yet). A detailed minute/seconds track with Arabic numerals spanned the outermost perimeter and the bevelled date window sat at 3 o’clock with black print – a position that became a general industry standard moving forward. “Datejust” wasn’t printed on the dial, as “Chronometre” appeared above 6 o’clock instead, while Rolex and Oyster Perpetual were printed below 12 o’clock with a printed coronet. It would be nine years before the first “Datejust” dials debuted around 1954 with ref. 6105, but Datejust still described the watch in advertisements and catalogues. That said, a relative handful of dials starting around 1950 with ref. 5030/5031 had Datejust, but it was far from the norm. Later ref. 4467 dials had “Certified Chronometer” above 6 o’clock.
Images above and below by Christie’s
Ref. 4467 was initially a limited-edition of 100 pieces and the earliest models were even sold in partnership with Swiss newspaper Tribune de Genève, and edition numbers were printed between the lugs (so a newspaper coupon, at least in theory, got you the first pick). The Datejust, however, was an instant success and prompted Rolex to abandon the limited-edition idea and move forward with standard production. That said, only around 1,000 ref. 4467 Datejusts were produced – not limited, but also not a large production run. A few notable variants include a left-handed version (crown at 9 o’clock) and a rare black dial with a white date window and red print in a rose gold case, and dials without lume were also options. It should be noted that the white date window with red print wasn’t limited to black dials and virtually all dials between 1945 and 1947 had white/red date windows following the earliest batches with black print. “Roulette” dates with even days in red and odd days in black soon became common as well. Datejust water resistance, from the beginning, is 100 metres.
Transitional Datejust, ref. 5030 and ref. 5031 (1949 – 1950)
The next major references, 5030 and 5031, were transitional models that introduced some new elements, but remained true to the early ref. 4467 aesthetic. They continued with the “Ovettone” nickname as the Big Bubbleback case back and domed crystal persisted, but a new Rolesor design (gold and steel combo) and all steel option brought a more casual vibe and distinctive look that would really define later models. Ref. 5030 introduced a smooth bezel, while ref. 5031 had an engine turned bezel, but they were otherwise the same. White and black dials were standard and the roulette date wheels were mostly used, and cases were available with yellow or rose gold, two-tone Rolesor and steel. Interestingly, there were three distinctive coronets seen in these references – basically short or tall. As mentioned, these were the first models to have Datejust appear in limited numbers.
Image above by Ablogtowatch – images below by Ablogtowatch and Analog/Shift
Ref. 6104 and ref. 6105 (1950 – 1953)
These were the last models to really follow the original ref. 4467 design language as significant changes were coming, most notably “Datejust” printed on all dials and a cyclops lens over the date. Ref. 6104 had a smooth bezel, while ref. 6105 had an engine turned counterpart (not unlike earlier references 5030 and 5031). Datejust began appearing in red on some dials under Oyster Perpetual and are known as “Red Datejust” dials, and dials were again available in off-white and black with rare exceptions including diamonds, etc. Ref. 6074 was an extremely rare platinum variant, and it’s believed only two of these examples were produced in 1950 (true unicorns today). Dial print also evolved, including “Swiss Made” becoming “Swiss” at the bottom and a scattershot mix of “Officially Certified Chronometer” or “Chronometer Officially Certified” on two or three lines, depending on the mood of the day (so to speak). Rolex and the coronet were now applied instead of printed, and the date window had either red print or a roulette (red/black) design. Metal options included yellow or rose gold, Rolesor and all steel, which was the standard moving forward.
Image by Bulang and Sons
Ref. 6304 and 6305 (1953 – 1957)
This was a very significant update as the first magnifying cyclops lenses appeared over the date window, providing what would become the quintessential look for the Datejust and many other Rolex models. Interestingly, not all watches initially had the cyclops addition and customers had the option to buy with the older, standard crystal without magnification. Enthusiasts often resist change at first. Ref. 6304 had a smooth bezel, while ref. 6305 had a fluted bezel with a design that was much closer to contemporary Datejust fluted bezels today. Dial options began to really expand at this point, even more than previous references with more colours, dial element options and textures like honeycomb. The modern Datejust was taking shape.
Image by Phillips
Datejust Turn-O-Graph (aka Thunderbird), Ref. 6309 to Ref. 116264 (1954 – 2011)
This was an interesting Datejust variant that featured a rotating timing bezel in lieu of a smooth, fluted or engine-turned design. It was an evolution of the Turn-O-Graph from 1953, ref. 6202, which was Rolex’s first production model with a rotating bezel (just beating out the Submariner by a few months). It was a time-only piece with a skin-diver vibe and featured a black aluminium bezel insert and a detailed 60-minute scale. In a probable effort to avoid direct competition with the new Submariner, the Turn-O-Graph morphed into a Datejust in 1954 with ref. 6309, bringing the familiar date and cyclops lens, Datejust on the dial instead of “Turn-O-Graph” and a new all-metal bezel that replaced the original aluminium insert.
Image by Analog/Shift
In 1953, the United States Air Force established the Thunderbird Squadron, which was an air demonstration group not unlike the US Navy’s Blue Angels (formed in 1946). Apparently, a Thunderbird pilot had a Datejust Turn-O-Graph, and it quickly became popular among the pilots, who formerly requested that Rolex supply the Squadron. Rolex honoured the request and also saw marketing gold, so consumer models were named the “Datejust Thunderbird” in the American market. An 18k gold model with a Thunderbird logo on the dial was also made as a special edition. The Datejust Thunderbird saw many references and updates, and remained in production until 2011 with ref. 116264 (steel with white gold bezel) and ref. 116263 (Rolesor). These last references had fewer metal options than prior models as the series was phased out.
Ref. 6604 and 6605 (1956 – 1959)
This model is best known for the change to a slimmer case, replacing the Ovettone design with a flatter, more contemporary aesthetic thanks to the new and improved calibre 1065 that was now a Superlative Chronometer instead of an Officially Certified Chronometer (meaning additional improvements and in-house tests, although it was far from the +/-2 second per day standard of today). The instantaneous date change at midnight was also introduced, but didn’t yet include a quickset date function. Ref. 6604 had a smooth bezel, while ref. 6605 had a fluted one.
Image by Bulang and Sons
Lady (and mid-size) Datejust (1957 – Present)
During the early years, a smaller Lady Datejust was introduced in 1957. The 26mm case was otherwise nigh identical to the men’s 36mm variant and offered a suitable model for women, particularly in an era when they mostly wore watches under 30mm. It wasn’t until 2015 that the Lady Datejust grew just a bit to 28mm. In the 1960s, a mid-size Datejust at 31mm launched as a small model for men and large(ish) model for women. Movements for these were generally shared with the Lady Datejust models. Between the 31mm and 36mm Datejust was the Rolex Date at 34mm, introduced in the 1950s. This was a separate model, but shared the overall aesthetic and features of the Datejust, although it traditionally featured a smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet compared to the common fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet of the Datejust.
Pie Pan Dials
Pie pan dials were popular on older Datejust models from the 1950s through the 1970s, with a recessed outer edge that resembled an upside-down pie pan. It was also used on early Day Date models. A classic Datejust from 1960, ref. 1601, is probably the best-known reference with the pie pan dial as it was a long-running model, discontinued in 1981. Models like the 5030/5031 had pie pan dials as well. Later 1601 models dropped the pie pan design and this particular reference is ubiquitous (for a Datejust) and great for enthusiasts who want an affordable vintage option on the preowned market.
Images above and below by The Watch Club
Ref. 1601 (1960 – 1981)
This was likely in production from 1959, but it’s generally accepted to be a 1960 introduction. With a 20+ year run, there’s been a lot of variations, but it’s undoubtedly one of the great Datejust classics and again an easy model to find (and afford) on the preowned market. It started with older features like the pie pan dial and alpha hands, but soon evolved into a more contemporary design with baton hands and stick indices that remain to this day. Of course, there was a smorgasbord of dial options available, but later 1601 models followed the “finalised” Datejust formula, and a nice pre-owned model with a fluted bezel and jubilee bracelet will truly mimic a new 36mm model today to most onlookers.
Image by Bulang and Sons
Early 1601 models had calibre 1565 (from manufacturer Aegler) with a 42-hour power reserve and a slow beat rate of 18,000vph. It didn’t feature a quickset date function, but did have improved shock resistance and was very reliable overall. It was perfectly adequate for early models, but the later calibre 1575 from 1965 increased the beat rate to 19,800vph and added hacking seconds in 1972. Typical for Rolex at the time, many movements were labelled as 1560 or 1570 as they used engraved plates for an entire family of movements instead of individualising calibre numbers.
Ref. 16030 (1977 – 1988)
The big change with the first five-digit Datejust models was calibre 3035 that finally brought a quickset date function, so the date wheel could be easily set via the crown instead of rotating the central hands to eternity. Little changed aesthetically as this was a technical advancement and transitional model, and there was a bit of overlap with late 1601 models. Vintage elements like the acrylic crystal and drilled lugs remained with this reference, and it often carried a steel engine-turned bezel. However, the pie pan dials were replaced with flat, contemporary counterparts with this generation. Ref. 16013 was the classic Rolesor model with a fluted bezel. With this reference group(160xx), Rolex enthusiasts today can get a retro Datejust with a quickset date for a reasonable price.
Image by Bulang and Sons
Oysterquartz Datejust, Ref. 17000 and 17013 (1977 – 2003 approx.)
Rolex developed its own quartz movements in response to the Quartz Crisis (started by Seiko in 1969), which followed the Rolex Beta 21 model (ref. 5100) from 1970 with a Swiss-made quartz movement from the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) – a partnership of around 20 Swiss watchmakers like Patek Philippe, Omega and Piaget. Curiously, it was the first Rolex with a sapphire crystal (even before the Day-Date transitioned to sapphire). The first Oysterquartz Datejust debuted in 1977 with quartz calibre 5035, an in-house movement that lived alongside quartz calibre 5055 for the Oysterquartz Day-Date model. Ref. 17000 was the steel Oysterquartz Datejust and ref. 17013 was the two-tone counterpart. All Rolex Oysterquartz models had a distinctive case design that was more angular with an integrated bracelet, differentiating them from the standard mechanical collections. The original Beta 21 was similar in design, but with a larger 39mm case to accommodate the bulk of the early quartz movement. All Oysterquartz models were discontinued by 2004, but many pre-owned examples are available for enthusiasts of the style and extreme precision that quartz provides.
Image by Zeitauktion
Ref. 16234 (1988 – 2004)
This reference introduced a new movement, calibre 3135, but only small technical improvements made it a bit more accurate and reliable. It featured Rolex’s thermally stable glucydur balance wheel with microstella regulating screws, and the patented antimagnetic and shock-resistant Parachrom hairspring. However, the big change with this reference was the transition from acrylic crystals to sapphire, which represented the final piece that brought the Datejust into the modern age. Aesthetically, little changed other than the usual smorgasbord of dial options, combined with different bezels and two bracelets (Oyster or Jubilee).
Image by 41watch
The Datejust II – Ref. 116300/116334 (2009 – 2016)
Arguably the biggest change to the Datejust design happened in 2009 with the Datejust II, the first model to go from 36mm to 41mm – a very big deal and polarising at the time for such a conservative watchmaker that holds onto tradition and generally resists this kind of change. The case didn’t just get bigger, but bolder as well. The lugs and bezel were now thicker and wider in proportion to the case (compared to the 36mm models), following an industry trend and targeting buyers who wanted larger watches. 36mm watch cases are definitely on the smaller side of men’s watches today, reflecting how tastes have changed in recent decades. The new model brought a new movement, calibre 3136, although changes were relatively minor compared to the previous calibre 3135. Ref. 116300 was the stainless steel model with a smooth bezel, while ref. 116334 was the steel model with a white gold fluted bezel. Interestingly, The Datejust II only came with an Oyster bracelet despite the fluted bezel that traditionally pairs with a Jubilee. This was likely due to the simplicity of production for the larger case (and cost savings). Many other references/options existed within the Datejust II collection, including dial variances and metals.
Image by Zeitauktion
Datejust 41 – Ref. 126300/126334 (2016 – Present)
Rolex learned from its experiment with the Datejust II (I won’t call it a mistake) and made some modifications while sticking with the larger 41mm case size. For starters, the Jubilee bracelet returned alongside the Oyster, and the overall proportions were toned down to resemble the 36mm case (thinner lugs and narrower bezel). This model resonated more with buyers as it had the classic style in a more contemporary size. The Datejust 41 houses calibre 3235, a superlative chronometer with the modern Chronergy escapement and accuracy rating of +/-2 seconds per day – well within the general COSC specifications of -4/+6 seconds per day. This was the latest innovation until the debut of the Dynapulse escapement in calibre 7135, which was introduced in the 2025 Rolex Land Dweller. Ref. 126300 was the stainless steel model with smooth bezel, while ref. 126334 had the white gold fluted bezel. As always, many more references exist within this collection.
Today, there are four Datejust case sizes – 28mm Lady-Datejust, 31mm mid-size (or larger women’s model), 36mm traditional model and 41mm Datejust 41. As mentioned at the beginning, the Datejust is a perfect representation of the brand and now with a size for everyone. It’s not the flashiest or most prestigious, but has one of the most recognisable Rolex designs that’s been outright copied by other watchmakers over the decades. Rolesor models are often symbols of success for rising businessmen/women and Wall Street executives. A great example comes from the 2000 movie American Psycho, where Christian Bale’s character, Patrick Bateman, wore a Rolesor Datejust ref. 16013 that helped define his personality in the role (from the original novel). Well, it was supposed to be ref. 16013 and almost all viewers were fooled, but Rolex was hesitant to have the watch associated with such a murderous character on screen, so he actually wore a two-tone Seiko 5 SNXJ90 that had a close resemblance (especially from a distance), creating the illusion that it was, indeed, the Datejust. I was fooled at the time as well.
Collectors
The Datejust design is timeless and models from decades ago look very much like new models today. It’s not the flex of the Day-Date and doesn’t try to provide aquatic street cred like the Submariner or Deepsea. It’s arguably the best way to flash the crown, showing class and style without boasting wealth or a desire to resemble James Bond (not that I’m accusing anyone). New 36mm models can be found from grey market dealers at retail prices, so there aren’t markups if your authorized retailer can’t help within a timely manner. The fun, however, resides with vintage counterparts. Clean ref. 16030 models with the new (at the time) quickset date can be found for under USD 5,000, while clean ref. 16234 models with the new sapphire crystal can be had for around USD 6,000. As mentioned, a clean and serviced example will come across as a recent model to most onlookers for thousands less than new. Both vintage examples above also have more modern features (particularly ref. 16234), so you won’t have to deal with vintage struggles.
For serious collectors, original 4467 models are a good start with clean examples starting at around USD 20,000. Rare models like a ref. 1601 with a “Confetti” dial is highly sought after with its unique and colourful pattern, starting at around USD 8,000 (and rising to over USD 15,000 for gold examples). Surprisingly, Oysterquartz Datejusts are very collectable as well as they were produced in relatively limited numbers and are oddities within the overall collection. Clean Oysterquartz examples, even Rolesor models like ref. 17013, can be found for under USD 6,000, so it’s a cool, collectable Rolex for a wide range of enthusiasts. Whichever model you choose, vintage or modern, fluted, smooth or engine turned bezel, Oyster or Jubilee bracelet, conventional or stylised dial, automatic or quartz… you’re getting the quintessential Rolex experience with the Datejust.