If there is a brand – or rather, a house – that opposes the focus of gravity, it is Hermès. Only pronouncing the name creates a reaction: it is the embodiment of absolute luxury. Elegance, lightness and discretion could be their keys, since Hermès is a unique case in a sector that is currently exposed to turbulence. No matter: the brand continues to publish dazzling consolidated results, while others – when Hermès has competitors at all – are fighting. It even announced the expansion of its watchmaker in Le Noirmont (cases and dials) by 2028.
We sat down with Philippe Delhotal, Creative Director at Hermès Horloger, a division that approaches her 50th anniversary. His journey began at the end of the 1920s when Hermès bought like many other movements and cases before burning the dial. A big step came in 1978 with the foundation of La Montre Hermès in Biel and signaled a clear intention to enter the category of watchmaking.
How do you create a distinction?
Over the years, Hermès developed from quartz to mechanical watches, a path full of challenges. “It is not easy to build legitimacy if you are not a traditional watch brand that speaks to the watch community,” says Delhotal. How do you draw up in a crowded market with watch brands and products, especially if your legacy is in leather craftsmanship? “It's difficult,” he admits, “but there is space for everyone.”
We had to create a story for our customers – one that combined style and horological substance, ”says Philippe Delhotal
Hermès by taking over a 25% participation in Vaucher Fleurier in 2006 accelerated his dynamics. But it still needed a unique tone that was rooted in Hermès' rich story. “We have decided to play with the concept of time. While most watchmakers are pursuing precision and measurement, we have decided to tell time differently – with Les Grandes Heures, Le Temps Suspendu, L'ure Impatient – a story offers a story at the time.” This distinctive approach helped to achieve Hermès, credibility and legitimacy. “We have no performance. Our goal is to cause emotions through storytelling. Our customers react to this mood – but also to the seriousness of our craftsmanship.”
Hermes: A house of storytelling
What makes Hermès so unique in the world of the ultimate luxury? While others may offer clichés, Delhotal is clear: “Hermès is a house of history and storytelling. Since 1837, lightness and elegance have defined our minds. We have never revealed our origins.” Craftsmanship has always played a central role. “Luxury,” says Delhotal, “does not mean much for itself. I would define it as authenticity, rarity and extraordinary objects.”
We have no performance. Our goal is to cause emotions by stories.
Indeed, Hermès is a house of creation and craftsmanship. In its 16 integrated Métiers, every creation is treated with the care of a small studio. A cardinal value leads them all: “A Hermès object implies transmission. And time contributes to his creation, it is not an enemy.” This applies to the Saddlerie – the founding activity – as well as to silk scarves, tableware and watchmaking.
“We go where the art of craftsmanship is,” explains Delhotal
With regard to the watchmaking, Delhotal notes that the operations in Switzerland between Le Noirmont and Biel, home to La Montre Hermès, are based. “In special cases we go where the know -how is. Switzerland for watches, of course also Vietnam for paint and embroidery. This choice reflects the wealth that we benefit from.” Hermès works with external partners for his movements and plays against the trend of sinking manual métiers. “We enjoy great freedom and can come from an incredible variety of specialized crafts.”
What defines Hermès watches in such a competitive landscape? “Since 1928, form has always been the signature of Hermès watches.” The style remains central to the creative and identifying process, but is not segmented according to product type.
Silk scarves and watchmaking: a constant dialogue
Hermès, a universe with several categories, has a creative heritage that is constantly reinterpreted. “The creation for watch maker arises from the interdisciplinary exchange with other Métiers leather, jewelry, silk.” Iconal silk scarves remain a central source of inspiration. “Everyone tells a story through thousands of colorful designs that are renewed annually. Each has a topic that we sometimes put in the watch production. Our approach is to adapt the design and its story from a 90x90cm scarf to only a few centimeters with dial.”
Delhotal reflects: “Our awake production was not easy, but we managed to enter collectors”, especially through unique complications. Hermès Horloger carved a niche with his poetic horological language. A tiny repeater or flying tourbillon can speak of time in a light, humorous and bizarre way of time, but always seriously. “A watch is never born by chance,” he says. “With every new project, our goal is to surprise our customers.”
The conclusion? “People feel good when they visit a Hermès shop because we are not a house of showmanship.”
The Noirmont expansion of the location
Hermès recently announced the expansion of his production position in Le Noirmont (Swiss Jura), which takes over the case and dial production. This includes Joseph Erard (cases, integrated in 2013) and Natéber (Dials, 2012 acquired). By 2028, the location will include 11,000 square meters and take up around 100 new employees.
It complements the Brügg website (Bern Canton), which is devoted to the assembly and production of leather straps and artistic leather voters, and the Vaucher production of Fleurier (25%), which specializes in mechanical high-quality movements.
Hermès runs 294 shops in 45 countries with 24,000 employees. According to estimates, 70,000 pieces are produced annually, which generates sales of EUR 577 million (just over EUR 600 million in 2023). Despite a global slowdown of watch sales, Hermès' half -year results (July 30, 2025) show a decline in wax sales by 8%, which is compensated for by a strong growth of other Métiers. The consolidated turnover of the group for H1 2025 reached EUR 8 billion, which rose to an increase of 8% to constant exchange rates.
Hermès watches are sold exclusively in his own shops, whereby retail is only a small fraction. Hermès also differs in his customer relationships compared to industry forms. The strong creative identity resonates with a clientele who does not consider the house to be uniform. During the annual meetings of Hermès with branch directors, the practice of imposed product allocation is prohibited. “The charging director knows your customers – it is up to you to choose the right products. That is why every Hermès business is different and unique worldwide.”
No two are the same: window displays and product offers vary. This is in a sharp contrast to other luxury brands, whose business from Tokyo via New York, Rome to Paris have identical windows and uniform presentations. In this way, Hermès shows his creative strength powerfully.
You can find more information at www.hermes.com.
https://monochrome-watches.com/defying-a-converation-philippe-delthilippe-delhotal-director-Athermes-Horloger/