If we had to name the single model that defined the concept of a dress watch, it would undoubtedly be the Patek Philippe Calatrava 96. This watch was quite revolutionary when it was introduced in the early 1930s and has been the blueprint for all dress watches ever since. Watch lovers have long recognized their beauty and timeless appeal. Furthermore, the price on the vintage market is so high that it is impossible for most of us to purchase. This is where a new micro-brand from Singapore, Horologically Unique, enters the space. The idea is simple, the style and flair of the original Calatrava 96 or 570, slightly modernized proportions (but not too much), a solid hand-wound movement inside, refined details all around and a price that cannot be compared to a nice car. Meet the Horologically Unique HU-01, an affordable Calatrava-inspired watch that looks amazing and doesn't cut corners.
Like many other microbrands, Horologically Unique is the project of a watch enthusiast who opened an account on Instagram called @horologically_unique with the idea of selling his (impressive) collection of vintage watches. From there, the direction changed with the idea of creating one's own watch, which immediately aimed to produce “a classic and simple dress watch that had to be affordable but high quality, thin and comfortable to wear.” The inspiration was also pretty simple, in this case the Blueprint dress watch, the Calatrava Reference 96 – a watch that is almost unanimously considered the ultimate dress watch.
Let's get straight to the point… These two watches, called Horologically Unique HU-01, are clearly a modernized version of the Calatrava Reference 96 and subsequent models such as the Reference 570. There's no other way to say it. But that doesn't change the overall appeal. These look fantastic (of course, I should say). The overall concept was to convey the idea and feel of a 96 at a much cheaper price and with slightly more contemporary proportions. As beautiful as they are, vintage Calatrava watches are actually small, measuring 31-32mm in diameter. While Horologically Unique has decided to update the size, along with its community, they have decided to keep things compact.
The debut models, the HU-01, are built around a classic Calatrava case, now measuring a very reasonable and extremely stylish 36mm in diameter, with an overall thickness of 9.1mm – and 6.2mm if you exclude the glass. As always with this design, the lugs are quite long and the watch measures 44 mm from lug to lug, so it doesn't look dainty. The overall architecture is exactly what defined the original Calatrava from the 1930s: a three-piece case with lugs integrated into the middle case (this was new at the time), a snap-on case back (now updated with a clear glass), and the requisite flat coin-edge bezel – although it's on the slim side here. The watch has a highly domed sapphire crystal, drilled lugs and is water resistant to 30 m. The completely polished surface also corresponds to the inspiration.
The 1930s inspiration continues on the dial, which has no logo or brand name. A conscious choice explained by the desire to “deliver a watch based on its nature alone, paying for what the watch exactly offers, and not for what is written on the label on the dial”. Fair enough. The dial of the Horologically Unique HU-01 is offered in two variants, both great classics: glossy black and vintage white with a creamy hue. The dial of the white variant features a recessed and snail-shaped small seconds counter, while the black variant is smooth. Both models feature polished applied numerals and leaf-shaped hands in classic Breguet style, a railway seconds track and a mother-of-pearl minute track on the periphery. Again, it doesn't reinvent the wheel and it feels very familiar, but it certainly looks good.
To ensure both accessibility and reliability, Horologically Unique chose the Peseux ETA 7001, a sleek, proven hand-wound movement from the 1970s that is widely used across the industry, from budget micro brands to high-end independent watchmakers. It fits perfectly with such a compact dress watch and is presented here in a version with stripes, perlage and blue-tinted screws. The movement runs at a frequency of 3 Hz and has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.
Regardless of the dial color, the Horologically Unique HU-01 comes on an 18mm grained black leather strap with a signed pin buckle and quick-release spring bars. I'm sure other, more original bracelets or a vintage-style BoR bracelet will also fit well with the overall design.
Availability and price
The two editions of the Horologically Unique HU-01 can be pre-ordered on the brand's website from now until the end of November 2025. Each edition is limited to 100 pieces and delivery is scheduled for March to April 2026. The price for the watches is 1,800 SGD (approx. 1,200 euros at the time of publication). For more information, visit www.horologicallyunique.com.
https://monochrome-watches.com/horologically-unique-hu-01-accessible-watch-inspired-calatrava-96-peseux-7001-dress-watch-36mm-introducing-price/