First look – The brand new 4th generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (including video)

First look – The brand new 4th generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (including video)

As Omega's longest-running collection, the Seamaster has all the credentials to be considered emblematic. While the model was launched in 1948, it was the launch of the Seamaster 300 in 1957 that gave the collection its true edge. But we must remember that there is more than one Seamaster. The name includes several sub-collections, such as the Aqua Terra, the Ploprof or the most iconic of all, the Seamaster Diver 300M, which made it onto Bond's wrist. And at the top of the range is the Planet Ocean 600m, the brand's technological flagship, created in 2005 and characterized, among other things, by its orange bezel. After a second generation in 2011 and a third generation in 2016, the collection, which celebrates its 20th anniversary this year, is entering its fourth generation. And the new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is not a gentle mid-life facelift, but rather a drastic design change. Square case, no more HEV, no date display, new bracelet… The 4th generation PO is nothing like you've seen before.

First look – The brand new 4th generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (including video)First look – The brand new 4th generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (including video)

We won't tell the entire story of the Seamaster line and the Planet Ocean collection here. We've covered this in detail in several articles, including a video about the model's origins and a recent evergreen article that covers every single detail about the first three generations of the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m. If you need that for context, sit back and enjoy the read. If not, then let's move on to the brand new fourth generation of the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, which is coming onto the market just in time for the model's 20th anniversary.

A powerful design evolution for the planet Ocean

Although the Seamaster PO600m has experienced three generations in the past (2005, 2011 and 2016), each bringing many new features, such as the ceramic bezel in 2011 or the Master Chronometer movements in 2016, the design of the Planet Ocean has remained more or less the same over the years, with only small changes to give the watch more resistance, more advanced functions or more modernity.

The original Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m from 2005

When you look at the 2005 model or the latest third generation versions of the PO600m, there is an undeniable common denominator. The Seamaster PO has always been a slightly improved version of the Seamaster Diver 300M and shared the same general inspiration. Both watches were based on models from the 1960s. Since its launch, the Planet Ocean has been characterized by the following elements: a slightly asymmetrical case with classic twisted lyre-shaped omega lugs, an overall rounded design, a helium escape valve at 10 o'clock, a slightly recessed crown in the case band, the latter with a curved, polished facet, a dial with trapezoidal applied markers, Arabic numerals at 6, 9 and 12 o'clock, wide arrowhead hands, a date window at 3 o'clock, a wide diving bezel, the material of which has evolved over the years but the overall design has been maintained, and a bracelet attached to the case thanks to classic end links, again rounded. And very often orange accents.

Well…forget almost everything you know about the Seamaster Planet Ocean, because for its 20th anniversary, this fourth generation is making a clean slate of the past. Omega has decided to give its flagship diving watch collection its own identity and differentiate it from the SMP and the Diver 300M. Angular, masculine, more technical, less classic Omega perhaps, but also back to more sensible proportions…

The development is obvious. The 4th generation PO gives up its curves, no longer has lyre-shaped tabs, no longer bears any resemblance to the 300M and even the separating helium valve is gone. This decision, explained by the fact that modern manufacturing makes their presence obsolete, is sure to be as controversial as their initial presence. Some will be happy, some will regret it. Even without it, the PO maintains the same water resistance to 600 m without the risk of helium accumulation inside the case.

There is an element carried over from the 6000m Ultra Deep collection which also does not contain HEV. In fact, this new PO features an internal titanium ring (around the crystal, inside the bezel) that provides the necessary material strength to seal the watch when diving at depth. The inner ring was an aesthetic part of the Planet Ocean in 2005 and the Seamaster 300 of the 1960s. With this new technical design, Omega has managed to maintain the same appearance but also give the inner ring a functional advantage that matches the watch's 600m water resistance.

One point that will certainly be appreciated is the return to the original diameter of 42mm. In fact, the Seamaster Planet Ocean 2025 has been designed to be more modern, yet smaller and easier to carry, while maintaining the same diving characteristics. Thickness is now 13.8mm, a whopping 2.3mm drop compared to the previous generation, measuring at 43.5mm x 16.1mm. The new, square case has also been shortened and the bracelet has now been integrated differently, with a first link that is much shorter and more mobile. Therefore, this serious diving watch sits more comfortably on most wrists. A flat sapphire crystal instead of a curved element is also responsible for this slimmer profile.

Made largely from stainless steel, with a screw-down solid titanium caseback (no more sapphire here), it's sharper, edgier and certainly unlike anything you've ever seen in the collection. Omega says it draws inspiration from the 1980s for models like the Seamaster 120m Mayol. In addition, the bezel was also retouched. There's a more pronounced serrated profile and this unidirectional rotating bezel features a wide ceramic insert with a simplified diving scale, marking a break in the 20-year line. The insert is available in black, blue and of course orange, the signature color of the collection since its release in 2005.

Classic PO 600m dial

While the case is certainly new, the dial of this fourth-generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean looks more like an evolution than a revolution. All models, regardless of the color of the bezel, feature an easy-to-read and high-contrast matt black dial. Omega has retained the signature arrowhead hands and striking trapezoidal applied indexes filled with Super-LumiNova (both slightly larger), as well as Arabic numerals at the cardinal points, resulting in an overall familiar appearance.

However, there are slight developments to give the watch more modernity and stay in line with the new, angular and sharp edge of the watch. The numerals are now openworked and squarer and appear sharper, matching the case and bracelet. It's also a nod to the original Planet Ocean, which also featured (printed) openwork numerals. And as you can see, there is now a applied numeral at 3 o'clock as the new PO is a dateless watch.

Depending on the edition you choose, the dial has subtle differences. The watch illustrating this article features matte orange lacquered Arabic numerals that match the orange ceramic insert of the bezel. The classic black version features a white enamel diving scale and is accompanied by rhodium-plated Arabic numerals. Finally, the blue edition also has a white enamel diving scale, but uses lacquered Arabic numerals in a matt white finish. The finishing touches include printed, interconnected minute scales between the hour markers, an applied logo and printed information about the watch model and movement.

Master chronometer movement

However, there are no surprises inside the case. The new Planet Ocean relies on Omega's in-house automatic caliber 8912, which also powers the Ultra-Deep. This movement with Co-Axial escapement and Master Chronometer certification beats at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour. Thanks to a double barrel system, the power reserve is 60 hours and it has a practical time zone function, so you can adjust the hour hand in one-hour increments without disturbing the rest of the display. And although we can't see it, the movement is decorated in typical Omega style. This means arabesque Geneva waves on the rotor and bridges, blackened balance wheel and screws, and red-filled engravings. Proven mechanics, high precision and everything you expect from the brand in terms of innovation.

A new, slimmer bracelet

The fourth-generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is launched in a collection of seven models, with each reference available on either a steel bracelet or a black rubber strap, with the orange edition also available on a bold orange rubber strap. The rubber straps are connected to the case via steel end links, providing a pleasant feeling of integration to match the angular shape of the watch. There is also a 3D bracelet effect to again give them more consistency. These are closed with a classic folding clasp (no micro-adjustment).

More importantly, there's a new steel bracelet to match the edgier design. It is now a flat 3-link design with brushed outer links and polished inner links, all faceted. The bracelet is slimmer and now appears to be almost integrated into the case, with the first link movable for greater comfort. The bracelet is closed with a folding clasp that can be adjusted to six positions and also has a diving extension.

Thoughts, Availability & Price

There is no hiding the fact that this 2025 Seamaster Planet Ocean collection represents a strong break in the collection, giving it its own style, very different from all previous models in the PO collection, but also very different from the other Seamaster models, especially the Diver 300M. The dial certainly has the familiar features and the overall quality is, as you would expect from Omega, undeniable. The technical data is also above the industry average.

While the new, boxier and edgier design of the case and bracelet will cause debate – and as always, everyone has their own on that topic – the return to a sensible 42mm and a much slimmer profile can only be welcomed, especially if it doesn't compromise its diving suitability. In a way, it's good if this watch sparks debate. The Seamaster Planet Ocean, without HEV, with a sharper design, has simply become something different than before. It's a more tailored design, as Omega says, a watch that looks more to the future than to the past. It's a bold move that will certainly be a little divisive, but sometimes it's good to leave the past behind and start anew. Let us know what you think in the comments.

The fourth-generation Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean from 2025 is released as part of the permanent collection and costs CHF 6,700 (black and blue) or CHF 6,900 (orange) with a rubber strap and CHF 7,200 (black and blue) or CHF 7,400 (orange) with a steel bracelet – all prices are exclusive of taxes. For more information, visit omegawatches.com.

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