In today's indie watchmaking scene, you might think you've seen it all, but in reality there's still a lot for us to discover too. After scouring the world largely virtually, we have discovered some of the most fascinating, beautifully constructed and finished watches. We see amazing work in South Korea, Japan, Canada, the Netherlands, Finland, Denmark and many other places. Next up is another eye-catcher, this time made in Switzerland by an experienced watchmaker with Portuguese and Laotian roots. This is Dann Phimphrachanh and his amazing debut piece, the Seconde Vive!
Traditional small-scale watchmaking has experienced a resurgence in recent years. We're seeing a lot of new and often quite young watchmakers making a stunning debut, seemingly out of the blue. But in reality, these young people often train and work for years, perfecting their skills and learning the craft to the point where they are skilled enough to step onto the big stage. And a stage that we always try to provide, because this type of watchmaking is close to our hearts. So when we hear about an up-and-coming talent applying to be a candidate for the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Independants (AHCI), we tend to get a little excited!
Then Phimphrachanh
For Dann, the AHCI is a bastion of craftsmanship in the face of an industry driven solely by profit, even if that means passing off certain industrial products as “independent” or “in-house.” This is the story of Dann Phimphrachanh (pronounced “Fin-Fra-Chan”), a man with a very interesting journey in watchmaking, working for Parmigiani Fleurier, Greubel Forsey, Daniel Roth and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Now he wants to step into the spotlight with his very own watch, the Seconde Vive.
Then, you were born in France, have Portuguese and Laotian roots and produce watches in Switzerland. That sounds like quite a journey!
Yes, it was a long journey. Let's just say that the joy of practicing watchmaking in its purest form was strong enough to endure certain, often crucial and uncertain times. To make a long story short, I was born in France and moved to Portugal at the age of 8, eventually settling in Switzerland at the age of 24 in search of a mastery in watchmaking.
How did you become aware of watchmaking? What was your earliest memory?
It was an opportunity that led me to choose watchmaking at a technical college. I had gone there to enroll in blacksmithing or electronics, but when I visited the watchmaking department, I remembered seeing a certain beauty in the handmade pieces and clockworks that I hadn't seen in the other trades. This visit was my first contact with watchmaking; I was 14 years old.
Where did you learn the craft and what motivated you to become self-employed?
It was at the watchmaking school in Lisbon, in the city of Belem. Like many schools abroad, Swiss companies are heavily involved in teaching, which means that all of our teachers travel extensively to Switzerland or have professional experience that gives them insider knowledge of Swiss watchmaking. Independence and creativity are therefore integral to the school's ethos, along with great admiration for those who are or have been important figures in the watchmaking tradition. There was nothing better to stimulate the curiosity of the eager to learn young student.
Their first watch is the incredible Seconde Vive. What can you tell us about his inspiration?
Coming from a school in Lisbon, I always felt a lack of legitimacy. Although I had the opportunity to collaborate with exceptional colleagues and work on exceptional products for the most prestigious brands, I wanted to create a watch that was technically sophisticated but also simple and traditional. To achieve this, I wanted the watch to be mechanical and have a movement that was noticeable to the human eye. I also wanted the parts to be manufactured exclusively using manual machines, as was common before CNC technology, and without any surface treatment.
What were the biggest challenges you had to overcome?
The biggest challenge was maintaining a parallel activity to pay the bills while managing a creative project that required a lot of intellectual energy. In my case, I wanted to isolate myself to create without external influences, which was sometimes difficult to manage. It took me a few years to manage to transform loneliness and everything that comes with it into strength.
The Seconde Vive has a very special seconds mechanism with a Reuleaux cam. What can you tell us about that?
Before using this mechanism, I tried two completely different mechanisms that proved to be too energy intensive. The Reuleaux triangle was an obvious choice that I tried to avoid, but this system is undoubtedly the most stable I have ever experimented with. After designing two more mechanisms with several modifications, I finally worked on the Reuleaux Triangle with three major modifications to achieve the desired result. Space, aesthetic potential and energy of the system were decisive factors in this choice.
Much of your work is done in-house and by hand. Can you explain this in more detail?
As an independent craftsman, it is impossible for me to make my own balance or barrel springs or even rubies. For this reason, and to ensure that my watches can be repaired effectively by any good watchmaker in the future, I used an existing hairspring and barrel spring that are easy to find.
I designed, developed and manufactured everything between the two springs. The plate, all bridges, wheels, pinions, balance and escape wheel were designed and manufactured by me using traditional methods. The same applies to the case, clasp, dial and hands. For practical reasons and within my current manufacturing capabilities, I also use three existing parts to set the time: the shaft and the two pinions that work on it.
Is it available to people and how many do you plan to make?
It's a complex topic, but to put it simply: I currently have a waiting list of over 10 years, counting all official requests from “certified” collectors. Due to the way this watch is made, I cannot produce more than six watches per year. For now, the first three years are reserved. I have a waiting list and will let people know in three years who I would like to make a watch for. This sorting step is not my favorite part of the process; Let's just say I'd happily do without it.
Any thoughts on what's next for you? Do you already have ideas for future watches?
Another complex topic that concerns me regularly. I can't wait to pick up my pencil and do some sketches. Let's just say that at the moment I'm focusing all my energy on developing my workshop so that it maintains a truly handmade approach and avoids the temptation to respond positively to too many customers, which might tempt me to take shortcuts. We have an honorable profession and it would be harmful if we did not act in accordance with the image that the craft represents. Let us take advantage of the opportunity that the market offers us to give meaning to the term “handmade”, even if it means a more humane and less quantitative production.
You are also an AHCI candidate. What does this mean for you and what are the benefits?
For me, it is a dream come true to be a candidate and take part in the Masters of Horology (an event organized by AHCI in Geneva as part of Watches & Wonders) alongside renowned watchmakers who fly the flag for craftsmanship in its purest form. To be honest, I never thought I would be able to do this, especially since the technical knowledge of presenting a watch has always been a priority for me. For this reason, it is truly an honor and a pleasure to work with all of the AHCI watchmakers. Even when it comes to the requirements for producing a watch, it is an advantage to be knighted as a candidate of the AHCI. I'm lucky to have Raul Pagès and Bernard Lederer as my mentors… I couldn't have asked for anything better.
I also have to say that AHCI is a wonderful ecosystem for independence. Even if some watchmakers are not members of the AHCI for their own reasons, the spirit is global and brings together the most passionate people, always ready to exchange ideas and share ideas. For example, Florian and Gael from Petermann Bedat legitimized me by sending me a collector they became friends with, even though they didn't know me before out of curiosity, after I approached them with a simple phone call.
Luca Soprana of Derek Pratt, who I had known for some time but had lost touch with, recommended me to many collectors after he saw my watch. The same thing happened with Raul Pagès and others. After years of solitude and creating, it's really satisfying to feel so welcome among my colleagues. The AHCI is clearly the core of the independent spirit, and this mindset goes far beyond that.
What do you hope to achieve on your journey into watchmaking?
Today I want to create a trilogy that is entirely handmade, but it's too early to make plans for it. It could take decades, one step at a time.
How can people get in touch with you to find out more about your work or reserve one of your watches?
I will be there next year at the next MOH with the AHCI. I now have an Instagram account and an email address ([email protected]), where I can be reached. Unfortunately, I can't always react quickly, but even if it takes weeks or months, everything is saved and I take the time to react slowly and put the watchmaking work in the foreground.
For more information, visit Dann's Instagram account.
https://monochrome-watches.com/seasoned-watchmaker-dann-phimphrachanh-and-his-stunning-seconde-vive/