François-Paul Journe, a talented watchmaker and founder of the FP Journe brand, is best known for his Tourbillon Remontoire d'Egalité – it was his first watch – and his interpretation of the resonance phenomenon. Also worth mentioning are the Octa, his automatic watch launched in 2001, and of course the fantastic Chronomètre Bleu. But when we consider his career, we certainly need to take a closer look at a more discreet watch, the Chronomètre Souverain. This watch cannot be overlooked as it is probably just as important, if not as complicated, as the models mentioned above. This year the Chronomètre Souverain celebrates its 20th anniversary and we take a closer look at this virtually unchanged icon of indie watchmaking in the recently introduced boutique editions.
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Twenty years ago, in 2005, François-Paul Journe presented a crucial watch, the Chronomètre Souverain. We have to remember the context at the time. The independent watch scene simply wasn't what it is today. Twenty years ago, CS caused a stir. It was novel, exciting and yet it was purely a timepiece. Looking at what indie watchmaking had to offer two decades ago, the focus was clearly on high complications and unusual displays of the time, rather than highly executed time-only models like we see today from ateliers like Raúl Pagès or Petermann Bédat. The trend was not the same and yet FPJourne decided to launch something different.
The original versions of the FPJourne Chronométrie Souverain
Remember that in 2005 the brand was still young (only six years old) and the Chronomètre Souverain had an important mission: to be the brand's classic dress watch, more accessible than other models but still retaining everything that collectors loved about the Tourbillon Souverain. And after two decades we have to say: mission accomplished!
Even today, the Chronomètre Souverain is still one of the brand's simplest watches and has hardly changed – apart from the variations in dials and colors, of course. But simple doesn't mean easy… This watch is a Journe after all, and it holds a few secrets. The caliber 1304 inside does not have complex functions like a constant force device, but is still technically interesting and has classic FP Journe features such as gold plates, elegance, thinness and symmetry. And of course there is the invisible gear train. As the name suggests, the Chronomètre Souverain and its movement were built with chronometry in mind – even if it is not officially certified as such. The movement is inspired by antique marine chronometers, with two parallel barrels and a sophisticated regulating organ, but more on that later.
The first Chronomètre Souverain wasn't that different from what it is today. It was already a 40mm watch (there used to be a 38mm version, but it's no longer available), with a thin 8mm profile, made of platinum or pink gold and a silver dial with a Clou de Paris pattern. The movement was also made in gold – there is no version of this watch with a rhodium-plated movement.
Over the years the watch has only gradually evolved. In 2015, to mark its 10th anniversary, FP Journe introduced embossed gold dials, later transitioning to silver dials with applied 18k gold numerals. However, the classic version with a guilloché silver-colored dial and printed numerals, which was launched in 2005, is still available. But now we come to the latest version, the Chronomètre Souverain Boutique Edition with a blue dial.
Classic chronometer of confident elegance
Available only in the brand's boutiques, these new 20th anniversary editions are essentially similar to the other versions of the Chronomètre Souverain, but with a new color scheme… And that's a good thing, because this watch hasn't aged a bit. It's still as elegant and sophisticated as when it was first introduced.
Available in either platinum or 18k rose gold, the case features a classic Journe case and is 40mm in diameter. At 48.20mm it's quite long, but there are two things to keep in mind. Firstly, it is only 8mm thick. Secondly, the lugs are nicely curved and the bracelet has curved spring bars. All in all, it can be described as a dress watch and wears wonderfully on the wrist. The case is fully polished, with a domed bezel and the signature crown with a rope-like knurl. So that you don't want to miss the view of the movement, it has sapphire crystal on both sides.
The most important upgrade for the 20th anniversary is the dial – and the brand has some experience in dial making. First and foremost, it returns to the classic guilloché look, with a solid silver base and a Clou de Paris pattern in the center. It's also available in a sleek dark matte blue color, which we've seen on the Divine and Quantième Perpetuel in the past, as well as special editions. The other improvement comes from the numerals, which are no longer printed but rather applied and made of polished 18k white or red gold. This gives the dial a new dimension and a more elaborate look. The hands have the brand-typical shape and are made of steel and rhodium-plated or gold-plated.
More on the dial… One of the elements that made this deceptively simple watch so attractive was its asymmetrical display. In fact, the two additional displays, the small seconds and the power reserve, are located between 7 and 8 o'clock and at 3 o'clock, respectively. Also note the reduced markings next to the small seconds so as not to damage them. Small details but important when it comes to visual balance.
Whether in platinum or red gold, the 20th anniversary editions of the Chronomètre Souverain are worn on a blue alligator leather strap with curved ends and a pin buckle that matches the case material.
The in-house caliber 1304 and its secrets
Now we have to talk about the movement. This caliber 1304 has a lot to tell, more than you would expect from a simple hand-wound timepiece. With its nearly symmetrical layout and motherboard decorated with a guilloche motif, it has remained unchanged since the model was introduced in 2005. And yes, it's mostly solid gold, as you'd expect.
This movement is clever in its conception, both in terms of chronometry and in terms of its construction, as it has some secrets to reveal. As already mentioned, it is based on the concept of marine chronometers with two parallel barrels, which therefore wind up at the same time. The aim is not to extend the power reserve, but rather to deliver a more linear torque to the control organ over the entire power reserve duration of 56 hours. The energy is transferred to a four-spoke, freely oscillating balance wheel paired with a flat hairspring.
But if you look closely at this rather large movement, you will notice something impossible: in fact, there is no mechanical connection between the barrels on one side and the regulator on the other. It's an optical trick: the gear train is actually on the dial side of the movement to give it more elegance and visual balance.
Another interesting technical feature is the power reserve. The indicator is positioned at 3 o'clock, which would normally interfere with the crown-operated time setting mechanism. To maintain a slim profile, standard construction was not possible, so François-Paul developed a new, ultra-thin mechanism with a rack and ceramic ball bearings, measuring just 0.5mm. In a nod to antique marine chronometers, the power reserve scale is reversed: the zero indicates when the springs are fully wound, and the rest of the scale indicates the time elapsed since the last winding.
Last but not least, the caliber 1304 is a beautifully crafted movement. It features continuous Geneva stripes on the bridges, guilloché and perlage on the main plate, and polished bevels.
Thoughts
These new 20th anniversary editions of the FPJourne Chronomètre Souverain show one thing: if something is good, don't try to change it. Twenty years after its introduction, the CS is still as attractive as it was in 2005. It's a classic that doesn't get old. It is elegant, wears beautifully and its movement is not only visually appealing, but also more complex than it seems at first glance. And that's something we love at MONOCHROME. Discreet complications without having to scream. And as a final note, these blue dials with their new applied markers really take the watch to a higher level. Happy birthday, Chronomètre Souverain… And now here’s to the next 20 years!
Availability and price
The FPJourne Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary Editions are exclusive boutique models available in the brand's stores and dedicated areas. These are not limited and available in retail stores 36,600 CHF in gold and 39,600 CHF in platinum. For more information, visit www.fpjourne.com.
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