The perpetual calendar is considered one of the grails of watchmaking and is also extremely challenging to master. It seems to be a complication that always makes headlines. This year we saw a plethora of them, from veteran maisons to high-end indies and everything in between. Since there is so much to choose from, it can be quite a challenge to find the perfect model for you. But don't worry, we are here to help you. We've rounded up seven of the best QP watches of the year, all with a certain “corner flavor” to help them stand out from the crowd.
Roger Dubui's Homage La Placide
Roger Dubuis returns to his roots again and delights us with the rather pretty homage La Placide. It takes us back to the time when Roger Dubuis made more classically designed watches instead of currently focusing on hyper watchmaking. However, there is a small special feature: It has a double-sided retrograde display for the days of the week on the left and the date on the right. At the top is the month and leap year indicator, and the moon phase is at 6′. The movement uses both original and remanufactured components. The sad thing is that only 28 examples will be made for a price of 138,000 euros (VAT included.). It looks absolutely fantastic though!
For more information, visit RogerDubuis.com.
Quick facts – 38 mm x 11 mm – 18 carat rose gold case, brushed and polished – Sapphire crystal front and back – 30 m water resistant – Bi-retrograde dial with blue lacquered base – Mother-of-pearl scales – Gold hands and indices – Manufacture RD1472 caliber – Automatic winding – 28,800 vibrations per hour – 48-hour power reserve – 307 components – Poinçon de Genève – blue calfskin strap with rose gold folding clasp – limited to 28 pieces – 138,000 EUR (incl. VAT)
Vacheron Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar, ultra-thin
The new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is a very delicious watch for several reasons. Firstly, the excellent classic QP layout, but secondly the very compact dimensions of 36.5 mm wide and 8.43 mm high. While it was previously available in this size with gem-set bezels and mother-of-pearl dials, a toning down like this works wonders! It is the epitome of elegance and sophistication, supported by VC's beautifully crafted in-house caliber 1120 QP. The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is worn on a brown or blue alligator leather strap with a tang buckle and is available for $5.50 CHF 86,500.
For more information, visit Vacheron-Constantin.com.
Quick facts – 36.5 mm x 8.43 mm – polished white or rose gold case – sapphire crystal front and back – 30 m water resistant – silver opaline dial – screwed QP subdials – applied gold indices and hands – Caliber 1120 QP, in-house automatic – perpetual calendar with day, date, month, leap year, age and moon phases – 276 parts – 19,800 vibrations per hour – 40 hour power reserve – Hallmark of Geneva – Bracelet made of cognac or blue alligator leather with pin buckle – 86,500 CHF
Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture
At the cheaper but no less elegant end of the spectrum, Frederique Constant introduced a real winner this year with the new Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture. Available in stainless steel with silver, blue and salmon dials or yellow gold with black onyx, it just looks great! The metal you choose will of course affect the price, as the steel model is more expensive 9,995 euros, against 29,995 euros for the gold model. Regardless, it's pretty darn impressive that FC manages to keep a fully in-house perpetual calendar watch under 10,000! All models come with an alligator leather strap with folding clasp and are part of the permanent collection when available in steel or limited to 37 pieces in gold.
For more information, visit Frederique-Constant.com.
Quick facts – 40 mm x 12.1 mm – Stainless steel or yellow gold case, polished – Onion crown – 50 m water resistance (30 m in gold) – Blue, silver, salmon or black onyx dial (yellow gold only) – Dauphine hands – Snail sub-dials (steel case only) – Manufacture caliber FC-776, automatic – 28,800 Vibrations per hour – 72 hours power reserve – hours, minutes, day of the week, date, month, leap year, moon phase – alligator leather strap with folding clasp – limited to 37 pieces in gold – 9,995 euros or 29,995 euros (Gold)
H. Moser & Cie Endeavor Perpetual Calendar smoked salmon
H. Moser & Cie is known for doing things a little differently. So when the brand plays with the classic perpetual calendar complication, they come up with things like this Endeavor Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon. The hyper-minimalist display is typically Moser, with a salmon-colored fumé dial, power reserve and large date indicators, and a tiny central hand for the months (readable from the attached hour markers). There is a leap year disc on the back, and that's all you get and need! The workmanship is simply stunning and everything is housed in a white gold case measuring 42mm wide and 13.1mm high. It costs retail 54,000 francs and comes with a brown alligator leather strap.
For more information, visit H-Moser.com.
Quick facts – 42 mm x 13.1 mm – White gold case, brushed and polished – Front and back made of sapphire crystal – Dial with smoked salmon fumé handle – Gold-plated leaf-shaped hands and indices – HMC 800, in-house automatic – 18,000 vibrations per hour – 7 day power reserve (168 hours) – Hours, minutes, small seconds (stopping), Power reserve, QP with large date, month, leap year (on the watch). back) – interchangeable Moser escapement – brown alligator leather strap with pin buckle – 54,000 francs
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar
This year, Audemars Piguet introduced its next-generation perpetual calendar movement, which also found its way into the Code 11.59. The complex and modern white gold case has matured into an impressive series of watches and is equipped with a uniquely textured smoky blue denim dial. But more importantly, the new caliber 7138, departing from the JLC base of the previous model, brings all the time and QP display settings into the crown! All displays are evenly distributed across the dial and even have a 24-hour display. Worn on a textured denim blue rubber strap and white gold folding clasp, it is priced at CHF 109,300.
For more information, visit AudemarsPiguet.com.
Quick facts – 41 mm x 10.3 mm – White gold case, brushed and polished – Front and back made of sapphire crystal – No correctors in the case band – 30 m water resistance – Smoke blue, embossed dial – Snail sub-dials – Markers and hands made of white gold – Caliber 7138, fully automatic manufacture – 422 components – 28,800 vibrations per hour – 55 hours Power reserve – hours, minutes, QP with week, day, date, astronomical moon, month and leap year – blue textured rubber strap with white gold folding clasp – CHF 109,300
De Bethune DB 25 Perpetual Sky
Every De Bethune is a sight to behold, but we've never hidden the fact that we absolutely love the brand's Starry versions. Whether it's the Starry Varius timed editions or this brand new DB 25 Perpetual Sky, there's just something magical about them. With a smaller case than previous editions, it thoroughly represents De Bethune's technical and visual ethos. The 40mm wide case is made of grade 5 polished titanium, with a blued and polished titanium main dial, a hand-set starry sky and a laser micro-milled Milky Way. QP indications include a spherical moon, which only adds to the spectacle. Production is limited annually and retail costs 125,000 francs (excl. VAT).
For more information, visit DeBethune.com.
Quick facts – 40 mm 11.3 mm – Grade 5 titanium case, polished – Hollowed lugs – Sapphire crystal – Open case back – 30 m water resistant – Blued, polished titanium dial with hand-set starry sky – Laser-cut Milky Way – Yellow gold hands – DB2005 caliber, Manufacture – Hand-wound – 339 parts – 28,800 vibrations per hour – 5 days Power reserve – hours, minutes, QP with day, date, month, leap year and spherical moon phase – blue alligator leather strap with pin buckle – limited annual production – 125,000 francs (excl. VAT)
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Perpetual Calendar
Finally, we turn to Parmigiani Fleurier's brilliantly clear and sophisticated Toric Perpetual Calendar. Available in platinum with a “Morning Blue” dial or rose gold with a “Golden Hour” dial, it impresses with the QP’s coaxial registers, almost making you think it’s a chronograph instead. The left subdial houses both the day of the week and the date, while the right is reserved for the month and leap year. The movement features solid gold bridges and is worn on an elegant gray nubuck alligator leather strap with a pin buckle that matches the case. The price is 85,000 francs in gold or 92,000 francs in platinum.
For more information, visit Parmigiani.com.
Quick facts – 40.6 mm x 10.9 mm – Platinum or rose gold case, brushed and polished – Sapphire crystal front and back – 30 m water resistance – Grained Morning Blue or Golden Hour dial – Gold hands and markers – Manufacture PF733 caliber – Hand-wound – 265 components – 28,800 vibrations per hour – 60 hours power reserve – Hours, Minutes, coaxially arranged QP display with day and date at 8′ and month and leap year at 4′ – gray nubuck alligator leather strap with pin buckle – limited to 50 pieces each – 85,000 francs (Gold) or 92,000 francs (Platinum)
https://monochrome-watches.com/chasing-perpetuity-with-some-of-this-years-finest-perpetual-calendar-watches/