Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected names in independent watchmaking. Since founding his studio in the Swiss Jura in 2002, the Finnish-born genius has been creating timepieces that combine the best of traditional craftsmanship with true mechanical ingenuity. His watches will not be confused with anyone else's work, with elaborate guilloché dials, exceptional finishing on all components and classic-looking movements that are technically innovative, such as the basis of today's timepiece, the Vingt-8 caliber, first introduced in 2008.
Now Voutilainen says goodbye to this basic movement with the 28MPR (Moonphase Power Reserve), the final interpretation of the Vingt-8 before its discontinuation at the end of 2025. It is a worthy tribute: a limited-edition watch with moon phase and power reserve indicators, housed in a newly proportioned case made of steel, titanium or platinum. And it gets us thinking… What's next?
The model photographed, a steel version with a salmon-colored guilloche dial, perfectly captures the design language and spirit of the watchmaker. The concave bezel and straight lugs instead of the characteristic teardrop shape refine the familiar case silhouette and give the watch a balanced, modern look. The case measures 37.5mm in diameter and is more compact than previous Vingt 8 editions, but still exudes presence thanks to its polished surfaces and domed sapphire crystal. Both the front and back crystals have an anti-reflective coating and the large, fluted crown is designed for quick correction of the moon phase setting with a simple press.
The dial with several hand-guilloched patterns is pure Voutilainen. The salmon tone of this example is warm yet reserved and is contrasted by applied gold Arabic numerals and instantly recognizable hand-blued steel and gold hands. The moon phase display at 6 o'clock is a miniature work of art: the moon disk is made of blue Grand Feu enamel, the moon is hand-painted with enamel pigments on a gold background. Each disc requires multiple firings and hours of hand polishing to achieve its depth and luminosity. This process is carried out internally by Brodbeck Guillochage, based in Fleurier.
A power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock completes the layout; The minute ring with the dotted track looks familiar as it is one of the recurring Voutilainen designs. As you would expect, the watchmaker offers dial customization to suit customers' preferences – colors and guilloche patterns can be specified to your liking.
The in-house manufactured Caliber 28MPR naturally retains the essence of the original Vingt-8, but adds complications. The direct impulse escapement with two escape wheels delivers the energy directly to the balance wheel via the roller stone, thus improving efficiency and longevity. The large 13.5 mm balance beats at a leisurely 18,000 vibrations per hour and is equipped with a Phillips hairspring and a Grossmann inner curve for optimal performance. The power reserve is 65 hours.
Every part of the movement, from the nickel-silver bridges with Geneva stripes (or hand-painted on request) and angulation to the polished steel components and 18-carat gold wheels, is designed, manufactured and finished in the Voutilainen workshop. It is one of the best movements you will find in the indie watch scene.
Worn on a hand-stitched leather strap, the Voutilainen 28MPR is available in a variety of colors and finishes, with customization offered to owners. Production is limited to 15 pieces per metal. Prices are 142,000 francs for steel or titanium, and 149,000 CHF for platinum. Further information can be found at www.voutilainen.ch.
https://monochrome-watches.com/voutilainen-28mpr-moon-phase-power-reserve-last-of-the-vingt-8-series-price-review/