If I had to describe the return of L.Leroy, once one of the most famous watchmaking houses in France, whose name was as respected as Breguet and Ferdinand Berthoud, it would be very theatrical. Founded in Paris in 1785 by Charles Leroy, the company became famous for its marine chronometers, regulator watches and commissions for European royalty. Leroy clocks accompanied explorers and decorated courtyards. Like many watch brands, it lay dormant for decades. Acquired by the Festina Group in 2004, L.Leroy quietly began rebuilding his legacy and preparing for a triumphant return to the stage. After a brief reappearance with the One Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon for Only Watch 2023, L.Leroy returned in earnest with the Osmior Bal du Temps.
The dance of time
The name Bal du Temps (“The Ball of Time”) was chosen to evoke the soirées at the court of Louis XVI. to remember where the rhythm of music and dance also measured the passage of time. The same lyrical spirit lives in a minute repeater that turns the hours into a melody. After all, it is a watch that tells time based on its performance.
The Bal du Temps takes up the “roller shutter” profile of the previous Osmior collection; it has a diameter of 43 mm and a height of 13.8 mm (11.8 mm without crystal); generous proportions, yet harmonious, especially given the complexity within. The case is round, with a domed bezel, a recessed middle section and slightly flared lugs. Available in rose gold, platinum or grade 5 titanium (shown), the Bal du Temps expresses different personalities, each distinguished by their dial tones: choose between classic warmth, stately cool or modern lightness.
Upon closer inspection, the case is full of contrasts and offers admirable details. The surface texture alternates between polished and satin; The engraved double-L crown and repeater at 9 o'clock sit close to a glossy base. The caseback features matt relief engravings, polished edges and a sapphire window that reveals the movement. The water resistance is 30 m.
A dial of light and movement
L.Leroy decided to open the dial almost completely. To continue the theatrical reference, the watch's minute repeater and flying tourbillon become visible like actors on a stage. The time is indicated by a single central hour hand, a nod to the Maison's historic “à tact” clocks, such as those made around 1810 for Prince Emil Maximilian Leopold of Hesse. The minutes are not seen but heard, they are sounded by the repeater when the side slider is activated: a ceremony that leads to something as simple as checking the time.
The hour ring with a delicate sunray pattern is color-coordinated with the case. In red gold, it is anthracite with gold-plated numerals and a gold-plated pointer. It is made of platinum, is light blue with ALD treatment, has white numerals and a rhodium-plated hand. Titanium is rhodium silver with black numbers and a blue pointer.
As mentioned, each version captures a different emotional tone, from formal and regal to quietly contemporary. The flying tourbillon at six o'clock, which rotates once per minute, hangs under a polished titanium bridge in the shape of the intertwined double L monogram. Its slow motion contrasts with the static geometry of the bridges and levers surrounding it.
The soul of the craft
The Osmior Bal du Temps is powered by the L601SQ caliber, a hand-wound movement built exclusively for L.Leroy in Geneva; Unfortunately, the name of the manufacturer is kept secret. It consists of 321 components and 29 jewels, runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of over 90 hours from a single barrel.
The minute repeater is tuned like a musical instrument, its two circular gongs are struck by highly polished hammers and are visible through the sapphire crystal back. The sound is pure, clear and harmonized, with the hours, quarter hours and minutes each sounding in different tones. Case material slightly influences resonance, so each version (gold, platinum or titanium) carries its own acoustic signature.
The 76-piece flying tourbillon creates a visual counterpoint to the music. Its 13.6mm cage is anchored only from below and appears to float in the dial. The workmanship of the movement is exemplary: a rhodium-plated single bridge with a matt surface, hand-ground edges and polished countersinks. The same approach can be seen on the dial side: satin and highly polished levers, circular grained plates and polished screw heads. It's not extravagant, but beautifully refined, the kind of craftsmanship that invites and rewards patient observation.
On the wrist
Despite its size, the Bal du Temps is comfortable to wear. The black alligator leather strap (large scales on top, small scales on the inside) tapers to a folding clasp that echoes the double L logo. The 43mm size, tempered by the curvature of the lugs, wears smaller than you would expect. The tactile experience is just as sophisticated as the audible one.
Availability and price
As expected, production of the L.Leroy Osmior Bal du Temps is limited due to such a complicated movement. Prices are available upon request, but given the materials, workmanship and dual complications, you can expect them to be firmly on the high end at €200,000 to €300,000.
Further information can be found at www.montres-leroy.com.
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