How do you handle a watch like this new Toledano & Chan? Although it is a watch because it tells the time, the B/1.3r, like all previous models from the young brand, is not conventional. It's not your everyday, classic round watch. It is a conscious statement, a watch that does not adhere to the rules of traditional watchmaking. Maybe it's for the best since the rest of the market is crowded. The Toledano & Chan B/1.3r is more of an object of brutalist design that doubles as a wristwatch than as a timekeeping instrument. And that changes the way you have to look at it. Sharp, bold, personal and biased – the design is crucial. And like anything that goes off the beaten path, it is not intended to build consensus.
Spoiler alert, the Toledano & Chan B/1.3r was certainly not unanimously accepted even within the MONOCHROME team. And to some extent it should be considered a compliment. This means that Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan, the brand's founders, have somehow managed to create an object of unconventional appeal. The inspirations behind this watch and all three previous models are clear. First, brutalist architecture, 1970s design, as the duo mentions architect Marcel Breuer and his Whitney Museum building in New York, particularly the window of the Breuer building. Secondly, back to watchmaking, the Rolex Midas of the 1970s and the integrated bracelet models in general.
The first watch from Toledano & Chan
The result of their work took shape in 2024 with the B/1 model, which was then equipped with a flat crystal protecting a blue lapis lazuli dial. The B/1.2 then replaced this dial with a softer dial made of Tahitian mother-of-pearl, but gave the case even more appeal and was now equipped with an asymmetrical, faceted sapphire crystal – an element that significantly increased the visual presence of the watch. Eventually a small run of B/1M watches were produced, making incredible use of meteorite as the case, lugs, dial and clasp were made from this textured material.
Refinement of the concept with the Toledano & Chan B/1.3r
We are now in Phase 3 of the Toledano & Chan project, with this watch being the third regular production creation. Let's start with a development of great importance: the material. The previous two “classic” editions were made of stainless steel, a natural choice for a young brand, but with consequences. The original Toledano & Chan watches actually used a lot of metal, despite their compact dimensions on paper. Wide bracelet, relatively thick links and a case with a lot of metal to create its brutalist shape. If you read between the lines, you will understand that the weight was not insignificant.
The new B/1.3r is made from Grade 5 titanium, an alloy that is 40% lighter than traditional stainless steel. Needless to say, this choice drastically improves comfort. Furthermore, the darker nature of this material combined with the rough brushed or blasted surfaces only reinforces the clock's Brutalist inspiration – it feels closer in tone to concrete, which is crucial in Brutalist architecture. A decision that is not only based on design aspects, but also simply makes it a nicer watch to wear. Now the duo has also reworked the case a little and retained its asymmetrical shape with numerous facets and the complex sapphire crystal, but reduced its width by 1.5 mm.
On paper, the case is 32 mm wide, 31.5 mm long and 9.1 to 10.4 mm thick due to its asymmetrical nature. But this Destro watch (crown on the left) is not small. The visual presence on the wrist is far greater than the numbers suggest. Photographed on Robin's 18cm wrist, this bracelet-like wrist-worn object is certainly impressive. Although the 10-inch thickness sounds reasonable, the compactness of the case and the sloping sides make it feel more like it is. The definition of the edges and most surfaces is clean and consistent with industrial intentions.
Another notable difference with the Toledano & Chan B/1.3r is the dial, which eschews natural stones in favor of a precious material, solid yellow gold – and it's well known that titanium and gold go well together. In addition to the new material, the duo designed the dial with an asymmetrical, curved pattern inspired by the waves of water, contrasting in color and style with the sharp edges of the case and its cold color. The surface is textured, matte and has depth that harmonizes with the distortions created by the faceted crystal. The attention to detail is also carried over to the hands, with an asymmetrical hour hand.
The bracelet of Toledano & Chan watches should not be viewed as an afterthought, as it is particularly in keeping with the overall design and also feels very special. It actually retains the entire brutalist, faceted, textured and asymmetrical concept of the case, creating a well-integrated, almost one-piece object. Despite the width of the links and the visual presence, this bracelet is quite comfortable to wear and flexible – this is certainly thanks to the switch from steel to titanium. A pleasant taper runs from the lugs to the clasp. The bracelet is sized via central screws on the inside, which is a nice feature.
However, nothing spectacular can be seen inside the case. The new Titan B/1.3r is based on a fairly common Sellita SW100, the movement manufacturer's compact automatic offering, with a 4Hz frequency and 41 hours of power reserve. Reliable and easy to maintain, but nothing to talk about much.
Thoughts
I have to be honest: This Toledano & Chan B/1.3r is not a watch for me… It's too sharp, too different, too unconventional for my taste. I may be a bit of a traditionalist here, but this watch just goes too far for my personal taste. Does that mean I can't see Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan's dedication to creating a unique, distinctive object? Absolutely not. On the contrary. Releasing a watch with such a bold design is bold and courageous. I have to give credit to men for that, and as I often say, some watches are appreciated by most but not loved by many. Here it is black or white, love or hate. There is no middle ground, and we could use a little more of that in the watch industry.
Overall, the Toledano & Chan B/1.3r is a design object that feels special, but is also well constructed, detailed and surprisingly more comfortable than its appearance suggests. However, it has its price…
Availability and price
The Toledano & Chan B/1.3r made of titanium will be released in a limited edition of 300 pieces and will be available from the brand from February 12, 2026. The price is: $10,200 without taxes. For more information, visit toledanoandchan.com.
https://monochrome-watches.com/toledano-chan-b-1-3r-gold-ripple-dial-titanium-case-smaller-review-price/