It is often said “bigger is better”, but also “big things come in small packages”. While both statements can certainly be true in many aspects of life, this also applies to watches. In some cases you want a slightly larger and heavier watch, while in other cases you want something more subtle and sophisticated. Since the industry has been focusing on smaller watches for some time, we are spoiled for choice. As a direct result, the classic dress watch experienced something of a resurgence, but small doesn't always have to mean classic and simple. On the contrary, even if brands continue to find new ways to pack a big impact into a small package. With this in mind, we've selected six watches measuring 36mm or less that impressed us with either their sleek classic looks or sheer boldness and elegance.
Nomo's Tangent Gold
The Nomos Tangente Gold starts us off in the most classic way, both in style and stature. With a 35mm wide solid yellow gold case and that deep ruthenium plated dial, it certainly looks the part. Suitable for the red carpet and many other things, it is a simple but very convincing Bauhaus-inspired dress watch. Sharp, slim, refined and with an in-house movement visible through the caseback – there's a lot to love. Worn on an 18mm shell cordovan leather strap with a case-matching pin buckle, it is part of the permanent collection. The price isn't half bad either, as the Tangente Gold is available at retail 9,800 eurosdefinitely makes sense for a watch made of solid gold!
Further information can be found at Nomos-Glashuette.com.
Quick facts – 35 mm x 6.9 mm – 18-carat yellow gold case, polished – Front and back made of sapphire crystal – 50 m water-resistant – Galvanized, silver-plated or ruthenium-coated dial – Gold or blue hands – Arabic numerals and line markers – Recessed small seconds – Caliber DUW 3001 Neomatik, in-house automatic – 21,600 vibrations per hour – 43 hour power reserve – in-house swing system escapement – brown or black shell cordovan strap with yellow gold pin buckle – permanent collection – 9,800 euros
Toledano & Chan B/1.3R
The Toledano & Chan B/1.3R is cut from a completely different block. Aside from its somewhat nondescript name, the B/1.3R is a smaller version of Toledano & Chan's signature angular style. Inspired by brutalist architecture, the watch is all about facets and contrasts. The asymmetrical titanium case is 32mm wide and 31.5mm long and is between 9.1mm and 10.4mm thick thanks to a beveled and faceted sapphire crystal. This faceted “window” casts all kinds of light onto the fluted 18-karat gold dial. This watch is very vibrant when worn and will surely get you comments! It uses the slim Sellita SW100 automatic, is limited to 300 pieces and retails $10,200.
For more information, visit ToledanoandChan.com.
Quick facts – 32 mm x 31.5 mm – 9.1 to 10.4 mm height – Grade 5 faceted titanium case and bracelet – Faceted sapphire crystal – Solid case back – Hidden crown – 50 m water resistance – 18K gold dial with fluted texture – Faceted hour and minute hands – Sellita SW100, automatic – 28,800 vibrations per hour – 41 hours Power reserve – integrated single-link grade 5 titanium bracelet, faceted – concealed butterfly clasp – limited to 300 pieces – USD 10,200 excl. VAT VAT
Tudor Ranger Dune White 36
If you're looking for something that's easy to read and stays under the radar, the new Tudor Ranger Dune White in 36mm may be just what you're looking for. This simple watch was previously only available in 40mm and with a black dial, but this sandy beige color (which Tudor calls Dune White, shown) brings a lot of life to the game, even in this smaller diameter. With Rolex Explorer-like vibes clearly visible, it does what it's supposed to do without any frills. Inside we find Tudor's own caliber MT5400 Automatic, made with Kenissi. I would choose the three-link steel bracelet with an adjustable T-Fit folding clasp, but it is also available with a green textile strap. Prices start at 3,120 euros.
For more information, visit TudorWatches.com.
Quick facts – 36 mm x 11 mm – brushed stainless steel case – sapphire crystal, solid case back – screw-down crown – 100 m water resistant – domed dial in Dune White (beige), matt – black hour markers and hands with beige SLN inserts – central second hand with red tip – black minute track with beige luminous dots – caliber MT5400, in-house automatic – 28,800 vibrations per minute Hour – 70 hour power reserve – three-link bracelet with T-Fit folding clasp or green textile strap – 3,120 euros (Material) – 3,450 euros (Bracelet)
Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36mm
The Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm goes in a completely different direction and is a compact and convincing interpretation of integrated sports watch design. The monochromatic appeal of the 36mm x 9.25mm grade 5 sandblasted titanium case is complemented by a vertically brushed dark gray dial. The black markers and hands are coated with gray Super-LumiNova for better nighttime readability. Inside we find Pequignet's own Initial automatic movement, which runs at a speed of 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of 65 hours. The sandblasted titanium bracelet is neatly integrated into the case and features uniquely shaped links. The price is 4,800 euros.
For more information, visit Pequignet.com.
Quick facts – 36 mm x 9.25 mm – Case made of grade 5 titanium, sandblasted – Front and back made of sapphire crystal – 100 m water resistant – Vertical brushed dark gray dial – Black baton markers – Black semi-opened hands – Gray SLN elements – Caliber Initiale, in-house automatic – 28,800 vibrations per hour – 65 hour power reserve – Sandblasted Ruthenium finish – integrated single-link titanium bracelet with folding clasp – durable collection – 4,800 euros
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic
As an almost literal journey into the past, we have the elegant and faithful revival watch from Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Master Control Classic. Made from steel and measuring 36mm wide and 8.15mm high, it is as timeless and elegant as when it was introduced in the mid-1990s. The silver sunray dial is clean and easy to read, with applied markers, Dauphine hands and just a touch of Super-LumiNova. The Caliber 899 time and date display is manufactured in-house but is hidden from view and is worn on a brown ostrich leather strap with a steel pin buckle. It is limited to 500 pieces and retails 8,950 euros.
For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.
Quick facts – 36 mm x 8.15 mm – stainless steel case, polished and brushed – sapphire crystal – solid case back with Master Control medallion – 50 m water resistant – silver-white sunburst dial – applied markers and hands with SLN – blued central second hand – framed date window – Caliber 899, in-house automatic – 218 components – 28,800 vibrations per hour – 70 hour power reserve – brown ostrich leather strap with pin buckle – limited edition of 500 pieces – 8,950 euros
Rolex Country Dweller
Size is an extremely contentious and subjective topic, but for us the 36mm Rolex Land-Dweller outperforms the 40mm Rolex. When the Land-Dweller was released about a year ago, it caused quite a stir and was The Crown's first all-new watch in years. It brought back elements of the 1970s and the brand's quartz watches with a sculpted case, fluted bezel and flat Jubilee-style bracelet. This example is in rose gold with a white dial, which balances the texture quite well. The 7135 caliber also introduced us to the Dynapulse escapement, which regulates the movement at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. Prices start at 15,100 euros in steel, with this Everose Land-Dweller retailing for 46,100 euros.
For more information, visit Rolex.com.
Quick facts – 36 mm x 9.70 mm – 18k Everose gold case, brushed and polished – fluted bezel – sapphire crystal front and back – screw-down Twinlock crown – 100 m water resistant – white honeycomb dial – applied markers and hands with Chromalight inserts – caliber 7135, in-house automatic – Dynapulse escapement – chronometer Superlatives – 36,000 vibrations per hour – 66 hour power reserve – 5-link “Flat Jubilee” bracelet with folding clasp – Ref. no. 127235 – 46,100 euros
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