First look – Holthinrichs presents the Signature LAB Series 1 Small Seconds and GMT

10 years ago, a young architect named Michiel Holthinrichs had the idea of designing watches… But not like any other young independent watchmaker. What made it unique? The Ornament 1 was the world's first 3D printed stainless steel watch. And it certainly had its own design, inspired by Michiel's previous career. The specially commissioned watch marked the beginning of Holthinrichs Watches. Ten years later, the brand has grown and defines itself with the concept of Horlogerie Brut, in which textures, surfaces and colors are derived directly from the manufacturing processes. And to celebrate a decade of its existence, Holthinrichs presents two new versions of its latest collection, the Signature Series, in raw LAB versions with a small seconds or GMT display.

In just 10 years, the young Dutch indie brand has caused a stir, not only with its 3D printed cases made from most metals imaginable (including bronze, titanium, gold or platinum), but has also defied convention with exceptional designs or even created a movement made entirely in the Netherlands with the Ornament Nouveau. Now, in 2026 and after ten years of existence, the team consists of 16 people and the brand carries several collections, including a fairly accessible but impactful collection called the Signature Series. This collection is still based on a very strong design and has had to make some concessions. The most important of these was to replace the 3D printed case with a classically machined one. Except there is still a watch called LAB in the Signature Series. And this particular model, which uses a 3D-machined titanium case, is now the basis for two new versions, the Signature LAB 1.S Small Seconds and the Signature LAB 1.GMT 10th Anniversary.

Let's start with the familiar: the case. These two new editions are identical and feature the exact same case design, manufacturing and dimensions as the Signature Ornament LAB central seconds series. This is a 3D printed titanium case, typical of Holthinrichs' LAB series, with a unique and effective design. Measuring just 38.5mm in diameter and 9.85mm thick across both models, the case is quite compact but makes an impression… The overall shape follows the design language of the Signature Ornament series, with sculptural yet flowing tab elements framing the case body, showcasing impressive curves and twists inspired by architecture and classic car design.

Since these are LAB models, the cases of the Signature LAB 1.S Small Seconds and the Signature LAB 1.GMT are manufactured using high-quality selective laser melting, followed by precise milling and elaborate hand machining. Holthinrichs benefited from the high precision of this process and gave the LAB series its own tabs, as thin as possible, perforated and almost floating around the housing container. This also allows for a lighter weight for greater comfort, a curved caseback to improve wrist position, and a unique design that defies almost all logic. The case is then partially finished and partially left untouched, revealing raw 3D printed textures with hand-decorated details.

Now let's talk about the dials, which, to stay in line with the previous Signature LAB models, also have a lot to say about textures and materials. Both timepieces feature a distinctive copper oxide patina dial, but Holthinrichs claims that these are the “most sophisticated reliefs to date (…) taking the concept of optical layering and patination to a whole new level.” For the “Small Seconds” model, a homage to Michiel’s first watches with a Peseux 7001 movement, the brand created deeply engraved lines that radiate outward from the subdial, with the deepest carvings bearing the richest layer of azure oxide patina, contrasting with the more brown-green nuances found at higher levels. There is also a gold-colored, laser-engraved logo, openwork hands and floating hour markers integrated into the inner flange.

The second model is a slightly more complex version visually and mechanically with an Office GMT complication. The dial made of copper oxide patina here has a multi-layered relief with a projection of a globe (seen from the North Pole), which emerges as an intermediate layer from the dial surface. The globe is hand brushed with a microbrush to selectively remove excess patina, creating a darker shade of brown that contrasts with the background. The most distinctive layer, the GMT indicators, is characterized by its Breguet-style design, brass color and brushed finish, contrasting with the underlying layers and matching the central GMT hand. Here both the central hands and the hands are filled with luminous material.

When it comes to mechanics, as with the previous versions with central seconds and in order to keep the price reasonable, Holthinrichs continues to use high-quality Sellita SW300 base movements (an alternative to the ETA 2892), which are known for their reliability and flatness. The Signature LAB 1.S Small Seconds is equipped with a Sellita SW360, while the Signature LAB 1.GMT is equipped with a Sellita SW330. Viewed through the transparent back, the highlight remains the patinated, hand-carved and heat-treated rotor with a tungsten weight that is scraped and heat-treated to achieve beautiful, subtle shades of blue and purple.

Each version is worn on expressive Rooster Leg leather straps with a signed titanium pin buckle and is limited to 100 pieces. The first deliveries are expected in the third quarter of 2026. The price for the Holthinrichs Signature LAB 1.S Small Seconds is 5,900 euros (excl. VAT) and the Signature LAB 1.GMT at 6,500 euros (excl. VAT).