First Look – The 2026 Minerva Collection, now a standalone brand, unveils the new Crownless

Since its acquisition by the Richemont Group in 2006, the historic and highly valued Minerva brand has been under the control of Montblanc, and its watches have double-signed dials. 20 years later, the venerable hidden gem of haute horlogerie is once again emancipating itself under the leadership of Laurent Lecamp, Global Managing Director for Montblanc and Minerva, and is now becoming a brand in its own right, although it still maintains close ties with MB. And consequently, Minerva is introducing several new models, including what we have all come to expect from the brand – high-end chronographs, including a new compact one – but also a completely new watch, the Unveiled Crownless.

Minerva, the revealed one without a crown

The first and most important new model for Minerva as an independent brand is a completely new concept, inspired by the brand's past. In 1927, Minerva developed one of the first military watches with a bezel-activated function using an indicator. Building on this legacy and after introducing a bezel-activated chronograph with the Minerva Unveiled Timekeeper in 2023, Minerva is now introducing its first crownless timepiece, The Unveiled Crownless, in which the bezel is responsible for both the hand-winding and time-setting functions of the watch.

Housed in a 41.5mm steel case, the Minerva Unveiled Crownless is a bold watch that is a continuation of the 1858 Geosphere annual calendar and newer fluted bezel chronographs. Crafted from 18k rose gold, the bezel must be unlocked by a lever on the back, which switches the function of the bezel between winding the movement (lever in) and time setting (lever out). The crownless look is surprising at first, but visually balanced and comfortable on the wrist, even though the watch is quite large and tall (12 mm).

The dial of the Minerva The Unveiled Crownless is in a classic 1950s style, with opaline and guilloche textures, a warm ivory tone and a small seconds counter at 6 o'clock. Large dauphine-shaped hands and applied markers complete the display, with the watch worn on a green alligator leather strap. Inside the case is Caliber M15.08, a hand-wound movement based on the same base as the 1858 Geosphere annual calendar and inspired by the historic Minerva “Pythagore” Caliber 48. It is made in Minerva Villeret's own factory and is made of rhodium-plated German silver, decorated with polished beveled edges and Geneva stripes. The free-swinging balance wheel and the in-house balance spring beat at a slow frequency of 2.5 Hz and the movement has a power reserve of 80 hours.

Quick facts: 41mm x 12mm steel case with 18k rose gold bi-directional rotating fluted bezel, crownless architecture – sapphire crystals – 30m water resistance – guilloche and opaline dial with applied markers – caliber M15.08, Minerva movement, hand-wound, 19 jewels, 18,000 vibrations per hour, 80 Hour power reserve – Dark green alligator leather strap, steel triple folding clasp with fine adjustment system – Ref. No. 137544 – 39,000 euros

Minerva The Unveiled Secret Limited Edition 39mm

Unlike most previous models, which were rather large (or very large), Minerva is launching the Unveiled Secret Chronograph in a new, smaller size of 39 mm and a striking burgundy colorway. The compact but quite tall case (14.18 mm) is made of stainless steel with a fixed, fluted bezel and crown made of rose gold. As with previous Minerva reverse chronographs, the caseback is solid and features special engravings.

However, the view through the dial is spectacular as one can discover the entire old-school chronograph movement with its traditional architecture, including a horizontal clutch and column wheel as well as the regulating organ. In addition to the smaller case, what is new in this limited edition 2026 is the deep wine-red color of the openwork structure with applied luminous markings in rose gold. The bracelet also uses this strong color.

Inside the case is the M13.26 caliber, an inverted movement (the first inverted movement was a 43mm version in 2022) and a reduced inverted monopusher chronograph, introduced here for the first time. Made largely from rhodium-plated German silver, it is as classic as a chronograph can be. It features the Minerva arrow at the 1 o'clock position, Minerva's signature V-shaped chronograph bridge at 4 o'clock and the beautifully crafted balance wheel, which supports the free-swinging balance wheel with in-house hairspring at 6 o'clock. This hand-wound movement offers a power reserve of 60 hours.

Quick facts: 39mm x 14.18mm steel case with 18K rose gold fixed fluted bezel, Monopusher architecture in the crown – Sapphire crystal – 30m water resistance – Skeletonized wine-colored dial, rose gold-plated hour markers – Caliber M13.26, Minerva movement, hand-wound, 25 jewels, 18,000 vibrations per Hour, 60 hour power reserve – wine colored alligator leather strap, steel triple folding clasp with fine adjustment system – Ref. 136354, limited to 58 pieces – 58,000 euros

Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph Limited Edition 30

First introduced in 2023, the Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph is all about putting the movement on the front of the watch. After several editions, such as the distressed stainless steel model 2023, the steel blue edition 2024 or last year's steel and gold model, it now comes back as a pure Minerva watch in 18 carat yellow gold. Essentially it's the same 43mm watch as before, now it's evolved into a more luxurious edition with brown contrast elements for the main plate and movement bridges.

The openwork sapphire layout and inverted construction of the movement allow for full discovery of the movement, revealing the signature V-shaped bridge at the top and all chronograph parts. Inside is the same monopusher caliber M17.26, which consists of 291 individual parts and whose column architecture is visible through five openings in the middle of the case. This hand-crafted and superbly constructed movement beats at 2.5 Hz and has a 50-hour power reserve. The watch is worn on a brown alligator leather strap and is limited to 30 pieces.

Quick facts: 43 mm x 14.78 mm yellow gold case with fixed fluted bezel, monopusher architecture in the crown – Sapphire crystal – 30 m water resistance – Skeletonized sapphire dial with brown movement parts – Caliber M17.26, Minerva movement, hand-wound, 26 jewels, 18,000 vibrations per hour, 60 hour power reserve – Brown Sfumato alligator leather strap, gold triple folding clasp with fine adjustment system – Ref. 136352, limited to 30 pieces – 84,000 euros