Since the AK-01 was introduced in 2012 under the Akrivia brand, Rexhep Rexhepi has achieved incredible popularity, which is also reflected in the prices of its watches at auction. Still, it's been a while since we've seen a new model from the young independent watchmaker recently, the latest being the Chronomètre Contemporain RRCC II in 2022 and a notable collaboration with Louis Vuitton in 2023. Given the volume of orders and backlogs yet to be fulfilled, releasing new models during ongoing deliveries is likely to be challenging and could be difficult for collectors to interpret. However, the wait is over. Rexhep Rexhepi was involved in the development of one of the most emblematic complications: the chronograph, the development of which remains an extremely technical masterpiece. During a visit to his workshop in the old town of Geneva, we were able to discover his beautiful RRCHF – for Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback – a mechanically classic creation with excellent execution and striking personality.
Expectations for a new Rexhep Rexhepi watch are naturally high, especially when the focus is on a complication like the chronograph. You expect something that respects the rules of haute horlogerie but has personality, and not just another highly decorated classic chronograph. And the least we can say is that the new RRCHF Chronograph Flyback doesn't lack character and is still beautifully executed.
Classic RR design
Of course we take a deep look under the hood, but first a few words about the design of the watch. When you first look at it, the RRCHF immediately catches the eye due to its unique dial configuration. The focus is on the chronograph functions, with the hour and minute displays relegated to an off-centre subdial at 12 o'clock. The thin, oversized chronograph seconds hand takes center stage, while the small seconds hand and chronograph minute counter provide a counterpoint in the pyramid-shaped dial arrangement. The use of tinted sapphire crystal for the subdials allows a glimpse into the intricacies of the movement.
The RRCHF is available in two versions, both novel combinations for Rexhep Rexhepi. The first variant comes in a signature green/blue enamel tone in a platinum case, while the other features a black enamel dial and rose gold case. The markings and numerals on the dial reflect the style of the RRCC and RRCC II. To maintain the same concern for balance and symmetry, the heading “Hgers à Genève” was added (Horlogers à Genève, watchmakers in Geneva in French). Last but not least, the elaborately shaped, graduated, hand-made steel hands further underline the character of the watch.
Available in platinum or rose gold, the 38.8mm case is excellent. It features a stepped bezel, rounded rectangular pushers and elongated curved lugs and is reminiscent of the creations of the late Jean-Pierre Hagmann, the renowned case maker who returned to the scene with Akrivia in 2019 before passing away last year.
Thanks to the movement's integrated design, the crown and pushers are perfectly matched, giving the watch's profile a balanced feel. With a diameter of less than 10 mm, this chronograph remains discreet on the wrist and is comfortable to wear thanks to its bassiné case back and slanted lugs.
A new and excellent manufacture caliber
Now let's move on to the business side of the RRCHF: The first thing that catches the eye is the striking architecture of the hand-wound movement. With its symmetrical architecture – in pure Rexhep-Rexhepi fashion, reminiscent of the RRCC and RRCC II and (mainly) the unique Chronomètre Antimagnétique – it looks like no other chronograph. From top to bottom we see a large single barrel with a 72 hour power reserve, the chronograph mechanism, the gear train and a large balance wheel held under a cross bridge. This symmetry is also reflected on the other axis, particularly in the chronograph minute wheel (with its characteristic serrations) on the left and the seconds wheel on the right.
From a technical perspective, the basic principles are classic with a horizontal clutch and a column wheel – the latter is almost hidden in a second layer of the movement next to the minute wheel. The large screw balance has a Phillips curve and beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour. The click spring makes a pleasant noise when winding the watch.
As you have come to expect from Rexhep Rexhepi, the workmanship is first class with magnificent, large and deep Geneva stripes that create an impressive feeling of depth. The bevelling, particularly at the sharp interior angles, is masterfully executed. Among other highlights, the intricate central bridge with its highly polished Geneva stripes is a beautiful sight. To achieve this excellent decoration mix, it actually consists of two different parts screwed together. One made of steel and one made of Maillechort. Another nice touch is that all the stones of the steel parts are set in a chaton, also for technical reasons as a softer metal is required to fix them without risk of cracking.
Availability and price
The vast majority of the RRCHF's components are made in-house in the traditional way: the case, the enamel dial, the movement and its parts… and that even applies to the hand-sewn nubuck leather strap – most of the parts are made near the brand's headquarters, with almost all of the ateliers located on the same street in Geneva.
The price for the Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF Chronograph Flyback is CHF 150,000, whether for the gold or platinum edition. Since the production of Rexhep Rexhepi is confidential (around 50 watches per year in total), availability is likely to be scarce and will be done through allocations.
For more information, visit www.rexheprexhepi.com.
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