Bulgari returns to Watches & Wonders this year with several new editions of its Octo Finissimo Automatic, in more compact 37mm case sizes and powered by the new BVF micro-rotor automatic movement. However, somewhat secretly, Bulgari also installed an Octo Finissimo minute repeater in a 37 mm case. The more compact brother of the record-breaking 40mm Octo-Finissimo minute repeater from 2016, the 37mm newcomer retains the same case thickness of 6.85mm and is equipped with the same hand-wound BVL 362 movement. And that makes the Octo Finissimo 37 mm and its 40 mm brother the world's thinnest minute repeater watches ever made.
It's paradoxical, but shrinking from 40mm to 37mm significantly increases the watch's appeal. The logic is that more compact case dimensions make high complications available to a wider range of unisex wrists. It is also not the first time that the 3.12 mm ultra-thin BVL 362 has been integrated into smaller cases. In fact, we've seen the BVL 362 in the 37mm women's Diva Finissima jewelry watch and the gem-encrusted Divina Mosaica.
A member of the Octo Finissimo dynasty, the classic sandblasted titanium case showcases its powerful geometry and raw industrial touch. Drawing on classic Roman architectural features filtered through a contemporary lens, the family's powerful stepped octagonal case is instantly recognizable and is among the most relevant contemporary designs in today's watch scene. Like the larger 40mm model, the 37mm case has the same case height of 6.85mm. If it weren't for the pusher on the left side of the case that activates the minute repeater complication, you would never guess that there was such a sophisticated chiming complication below deck.
The use of titanium for the case and dial ensures lightness and optimal sound distribution without the additional weight of gold or platinum. The deliberately thin, light and hollowed-out housing ensures that the vibrations of the gongs are transmitted. The incisions on the dial – the Arabic numeral 12, the indices and the subdial for the small seconds – are intended to optimize sound transmission by allowing the sound waves from the gongs to escape more easily. Since the gongs are attached directly to the case, the titanium case becomes the main resonator.
The traditional architecture of the two-hammer minute repeater can be seen on the caseback of the hand-wound BVL 362. With 362 components and a thickness of just 3.12mm (thinner than a British one pound coin), this miniaturized masterpiece operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a 42-hour power reserve.
Each link of the sandblasted titanium bracelet, which is reminiscent of tank chains, is individually manufactured and assembled by hand. It is attached to the wrist via an integrated folding clasp with press studs. The price will be 195,000 euros. More information at bulgari.com.
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