The Luminor takes the spotlight this year with several vintage-inspired releases that celebrate Panerai's legacy as a supplier of precision instruments to the Italian Navy. After the first generation of combat diver watches in the mid-1930s, which radiated radium-based Radiomir, Panerai developed a less harmful luminous substance called Luminor, which would eventually come to define the brand's iconic Luminor collection with its distinctive crown protection bridge. Panerai once again draws on its historical reference from the 1960s. 6152/1, a model commissioned by the Marina Militare for its command swimmers as inspiration for the new Luminor PAM01735 and Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629 models.
With its unparalleled heritage of top-secret military tool watches and precision instruments for the Italian Navy, Panerai not only developed luminous compounds but also strengthened the construction of its cases to meet the demands of extreme underwater operations. Early Panerai models, such as the 1938 Radiomir prototype, used wire lugs welded to the case. In 1950, Panerai switched from wire lugs to solid lugs machined directly from the same block of steel as the case center to improve structural integrity and water resistance. A key innovation, however, was the crown protection bridge, a signature feature of the Luminor, with a patented hinge lever that folds up to unlock and down to lock, pressing the crown firmly against the gasket for a watertight seal.
Designed for the Marina Militare, ref. no. 6152/2 was the embodiment of the new and improved safety features. With its cushion-shaped 47mm case, integrated lugs and crown-protecting bridge, this model consolidated the Luminor's design language. In honor of their ancestor, the new references adopt the original case size of 47 mm, but with a slightly slimmer profile.
The PAM01735 draws on the past with a polished, 100m waterproof stainless steel case with a brushed crown to protect the bridge. Taking cues from the way vintage Panerai black dials would fade over time – when exposed to sunlight and luminous compounds – the PAM01735 sports a matte ivory sandwich dial with a grainy finish to reduce reflections. Like the tropical dials of yesteryear, the gradient dial transitions from a lighter tone in the center to a browner tone at the edge. Vintage beige Super-LumiNova is applied to the lower plate of the sandwich dial and the retro double pin hands. As a nod to the rigor of the robust underwater tool watches, the dial has hardly any inscriptions and, in addition to the hour and minute displays, has a small seconds counter at 9 o'clock.
In a more modern style, the PAM01629 experiments with Panerai's first-ever forged titanium case. Forged titanium is created by combining two types of titanium with heat and pressure under a forging hammer and features a striking surface with wavy patterns in contrasting gray tones. Since the texture varies from case to case, no two watches are the same and the wave patterns underline Panerai's connection to the maritime world. Due to its high corrosion resistance and strength, forged titanium is 40% lighter than steel and is used to make the middle case, bezel and crown protection bridge. The PAM01629 features an anthracite sunburst sandwich dial with beige Super-LumiNova on the lower plate and hands.
Evoking the optical effect of the old-fashioned Perspex acrylic used in the Luminor watches of the 1960s, the dials are protected by a domed sapphire crystal, which creates optical distortion at the edge of the dial. Another common feature of both watches, reminiscent of the hand-wound movements of vintage Panerai models, is the P.3000 caliber with two barrels and a robust three-day power reserve. Its diameter of 16½ lines is reminiscent of the tradition of the large movements of historical Panerai models with extended power reserves. The hand-wound movement visible on the caseback is secured by a wide bridge and three smaller bridges for increased shock resistance. The three-day power reserve is provided by two barrels. A useful feature of the P.3000 is its quick time change function, which allows the hour hand to be moved forward and back in one-hour increments by placing the crown in the first position.
The PAM01735 is fitted with a brown calfskin strap with a steel buckle and comes with an additional black rubber strap. The PAM01629 comes with a light beige suede calfskin strap and an additional black rubber strap. The steel-made Luminor PAM01735 will be available in June 2026 at a price of €5.00 12,100 euros. The Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629 is a limited edition of 100 pieces and will be available in November 2026 23,000 euros.
More information at panerai.com.
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