Back for a second term at Jaeger LeCoultreThe return of Jérôme Lambert as CEO in 2025 has given the brand new impetus. While spectacularly complex models like the Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon a Stratosphere may be in the spotlight at Watches & Wonders this year, there is a second release that deserves attention: the new Master Control Chronometre collection. Based on the classic, precision-controlled Master Control family, the new collection is important in several ways. Firstly, it features a new, beautifully constructed and integrated bracelet that refines the design, and secondly, the movements are the first to be tested under the new High Precision Guarantee (HPG) seal, replacing the previous 1000-hour control. Let's take a first look at the new trilogy, which for the first time features a compact and slim time and date display, date and power reserve, and a more sophisticated perpetual calendar.
Launched in 1992, the Master Control family is inspired by the house's golden era of classic 1950s designs, represented by models such as Futurematic and Geophysic. Featuring round cases with curved lugs, sharp Dauphine hands, arrow-shaped indices and sunray dials, the Master Control captures the vintage spirit of the brand's golden oldies with understated, timeless sophistication. The “Control” part of the name refers to the brand’s 1,000-hour control certification, which evaluates the entire watch against 15 demanding criteria.
The first thing that catches the eye on the new Master Control Chronometer models is the slim, integrated bracelet, which complements, but does not replace, previous models. Although there are Master Control models with steel bracelets, I don't think anyone expected a bracelet of this caliber. Similar in spirit to Vacheron's Overseas line bracelets (a positive comparison), the integrated bracelet creates an unbroken line from the case to the entire wrist, giving the watches a more sophisticated, modern look.
You can see that a lot of attention was paid to the design and construction of the three-link bracelet with its vertically brushed links and polished facets. The sharp, elongated and polished link that crosses the central link of the three-row bracelet is inspired by the features of the Master Control dial and recalls the profile of the Dauphine hour and minute hands. Another reference to the dial is the V-shaped bevel on the outer links, reminiscent of the triangular indices. The bracelet is attached with a double folding clasp with pushers and has an integrated micro-adjustment system (comfort clasp).
Before we look at the individual watches, it's worth noting that all three models feature compact, slim, 50m waterproof cases (38mm x 8.4mm and 39mm x 9.2mm). The bracelet's bezel, crown and dauphine-shaped link are decorated and polished with numerous satin finishes and highly polished facets.
The three watches are powered by in-house automatic chronometer-certified movements with silicon escapements, 4 Hz frequencies and a power reserve of 70 hours – all certified by the HPG seal. In short, the HPG tests cased watches based on four critical elements of daily wear: altitude, shock, position and temperature. The HPG seal, tested for three days, also certifies the aesthetic workmanship of the calibers decorated with eight traditional techniques.
Other common features include sunray dials, faceted applied indices and slim dauphine hands. To underline the technical character of the chronometer-certified movements, the edge of the dial features a precise seconds and minutes display with dots at 5-minute intervals.
Master Control Chronometer Date
The simplest model in the trilogy, this classic time and date watch features a compact 38mm unisex case with a slim 8.4mm silhouette. Available in steel with a blue-gray gradient dial or rose gold with a bronze dial, details such as the polished dots on the edge rail, the framed date window with a background that matches the dial color, the faceted indexes and dauphine hands, and the silky sunburst dial demonstrate the care invested in the finishing. The back shows the complex construction of the integrated bracelet and the slim 3.3mm automatic in-house caliber 899 that powers the watch.
Quick facts: 38 mm diameter x 8.4 mm thickness – 18k rose gold or stainless steel, brushed and polished – 50 m water resistance – Steel with blue-grey gradient dial, gold with bronze sunray dial – Dauphine hands, applied arrow-shaped indices, Arabic numerals at 12, 6 and 9 o'clock and dots on the peripheral seconds/minutes display – Framed date window at 3 o'clock – Integrated 3-row steel or gold bracelet with double folding clasp, brushed and polished – Manufacture caliber 899 – Automatic – 4 Hz – 70 hour power reserve – COSC certified and HPG seal – Ref. no. Q4158120 made of steel, 14,700 euros – ref. Q415216J in red gold, 54,500 euros
Master Control Chronometer Date Power Reserve
Inspired by Jaeger's legendary 1951 Futurematic, the date and power reserve dial layout features two circular subdials balanced on the 9-3 axis. The gradient blue-gray sunburst dial bears all the signature features of the Master Control family, complemented by the recessed snail-shaped power reserve subdial at 9 o'clock with red warning indicator and the date directly opposite, also accented in red at 31.
The 39 mm case, available only in steel, has a slim height of 9.2 mm and is powered by the new in-house caliber 738. The sapphire caseback, just 4.97 mm thick, reveals the openwork 22-carat gold rotor and the finely crafted movement with a power reserve of 70 hours for the hour, minute, seconds, power reserve and date functions.
Quick facts: 39 mm diameter x 9.2 mm thickness – Stainless steel, brushed and polished – 50 m water resistance – Gray-blue gradient dial – Snail-shaped subdials with power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock and date at 3 o'clock, Dauphine hands, applied arrow-shaped indices, Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock and dots on the peripheral seconds/minutes display – Integrated 3-row steel bracelet with double folding clasp, brushed and polished – Manufacture caliber 738 – Automatic – 4 Hz – 70 hour power reserve – COSC certified and HPG seal – Ref. no. Q416812017,700 euros
Master Control Chronometer with perpetual calendar
The most complicated member of the trilogy is this QP, which is powered by the latest generation of the well-known, ultra-thin in-house caliber 868. The movement is capable of accommodating months of different lengths and leap years and, if left wound, will not need to be adjusted until the year 2100. Additionally, the calendar displays can be customized simultaneously from a single calendar. Presented in a 39mm case with a thickness of just 9.2mm, the new Perpetual Calendar with integrated bracelet is an absolute beauty.
Available in steel with a blue-gray gradient dial or rose gold with a bronze dial, the calendar indications are displayed in four subdials with an opaline outer ring and snail-shaped interior surfaces – months and year at noon, days of the week at 3 o'clock, date at 9 o'clock, leap year indicator above the central axis and moon phases (with a hammered gold or platinum leaf moon) at 6 o'clock.
Quick facts: 39mm diameter x 9.2mm thickness – 18k rose gold or stainless steel, brushed and polished – 50m water resistance – Steel with blue-grey gradient dial, gold with bronze sunray dial – 4 snail-shaped subdials with opaline edges for calendar displays (month and year at 12 o'clock, days of the week at 3 o'clock, date at 9 o'clock, moon phases at 6 o'clock with gold or hammered moon made of platinum), dauphine hands, applied arrow-shaped indices, dots on the peripheral seconds/minute track – integrated 3-row steel or gold bracelet with double folding clasp, brushed and polished – manufacture caliber 868 – automatic – 4 Hz – 70 hour power reserve – COSC certified and HPG seal – Ref. No. Q4178180 made of steel, 47,400 euros – ref. Q417216J in red gold, 87,000 euros
Further information at jaeger-lecoultre.com.
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