This year was a big one for the Rolex Group as the Crown celebrated the 100th anniversary of its iconic Oyster case, while Tudor celebrated its 100th anniversary with its founding in 1926. With this in mind, expectations were high and some predicted a fireworks display of novelties, huge innovations and completely new collections… And the celebrations were actually much more discreet, at least for Rolex (even if we may not have seen everything yet…) At Tudor However, something new, or at least the return of an old name, was printed on the dial of a completely new watch, the Tudor Monarch. But what is this watch all about? Let's find out.
The Tudor monarch in a nutshell
Let's start with the overall intention behind the development of this watch. As far as I can tell, it is the model that celebrates the brand's 100th anniversary. Certainly Tudor doesn't push this idea much and remains reserved about the entire centuries-long history, instead focusing on the product. Which is somehow comfortable these days and avoids marketing-driven conversations.
The name…Monarch. The watch is new, the nomenclature is not. The term “Monarch” has been used in the past to refer to a range of sporty-chic watches we're better off forgetting, often in steel and gold combinations, with coin-edge bezels and quartz movements (there were also automatic watches). As with many of the brand's models in the 1980s and 1990s, these were not the Tudor's glory days. So why bring the name back? Well, to mark the beginning of a new era and to mark the launch of a new watch that occupies a high place in the brand's portfolio, the crowned watch if you will, which benefits from all the best that the brand has to offer, be it in its own catalog or from its numerous suppliers.
The Tudor Monarch is a watch that lives up to its time. It has the classic, sporty-chic appeal that's been so popular lately, but it's not an integrated design per se. The dial is deeply inspired by vintage style, soothing yet unparalleled, but also has slight characteristics of indie watchmaking in the display and color. It features a new body, sharp and angular, beautifully finished and ergonomically pleasant, which houses a more premium version of the Kenissi architecture. It even features traditional finishes while still being equipped with top-notch certifications. And yes, the price is at the top end of the brand, but that doesn't mean it's not good value for money.
The details
The first comment I have to make is that I'm excited to see something new from Tudor, something that doesn't have the Black Bay name printed on the dial. As great as the collection is and as crucial as this series of watches was to Tudor's revival, we needed something more. The last time Tudor released a watch that was part of the classic trio (Black Bay, Pelagos, Ranger) it was the North Flag, and despite objective qualities it was not a commercial success (although for us it is still an underrated watch to discover)… Time will tell whether the Tudor Monarch will be successful or not, but the initial reactions from the press and watch lovers are positive. Rightly so? I believe the enthusiasm is justified.
Let's start with the design of the Monarch. At first glance you could see something of a “luxury sports watch” with an integrated bracelet. In fact, there are a few features of this category here, starting with the actual shape of the case, with its sharp, faceted, barrel-shaped middle section and no real lugs. The Monarch is based on an octagonal idea, but doesn't have everything that an integrated sports watch usually has. First of all, the bracelet is not designed as a continuation of the sides of the case and yet is not traditionally connected to the case. There are some elements between the tabs that give consistency to the design. However, the back features a more classic construction that would make swapping it for a leather or rubber strap quite easy.
In addition to this slightly octagonal case we have a classic round bezel, angled, sharp and polished. No notches, no wrong screws. Looking at the sides of the Monarch is more interesting and shows a stronger attention to detail and ergonomics. On paper, the Tudor Monarch is neither small nor oversized, measuring 39mm in diameter, 46.2mm long and 11.9mm thick. The latter measurement seems a little disappointing on paper, and we would have liked to see a watch around 10mm or less. However, Tudor also uses box-shaped sapphire crystals for the caseback, which absorb a large part of the measured thickness not only visually but also in terms of wearing comfort. Below you can see the Tudor Monarch on Robin's 18.5cm wrist (left) and on my 16.5cm wrist (right).
Subsequently, the sides of the case are heavily faceted on two levels thanks to wide, tapered, polished bevels on each side. The tapered effect is particularly noticeable on the watch's profile and visually makes the watch much lighter and slimmer than anything else Tudor makes. Although a more sophisticated watch with a more elegant purpose, the Monarch still features a screw-down crown and caseback and a comfortable 100m water resistance.
To be fair, the dial of the Tudor Monarch was quite a surprise. I imagine it's not for everyone, but you have to admit that it has a certain boldness to it while maintaining a reassuringly classic feel – and even a bit of that indie vibe that we see in a much higher category. The color of this dial is defined by Tudor as dark champagne and is combined with a vertical brushed surface that gives it an old-fashioned “papyrus” touch. It's a pretty bold decision to launch this new collection, but the result is distinctive and particularly attractive – at least within the MONOCHROME team it received an almost unanimously positive response. There's something unexpectedly traditional and horological about this color that Tudor hasn't done in the last 15 years.
Another striking element of the Monarch dial: the applied markings. For this introductory model, Tudor chose a classic design that is perhaps more reminiscent of Rolex than classic Tudor but is still reassuringly familiar, a so-called “failproof” or “California” dial. The dial, framed by a railway minute scale, is based on a combination of Roman numerals from 10 to 2 and Arabic numerals from 4 to 8, with the applied shield at 12 and baton markers at 3 and 9 o'clock. These markings are applied thinly and blackened and give the dial a great depth. Another surprising element were the hands, which feel like chic old-school versions of the classic Tudor snowflake mixed with Breguet hands. Finally, to underline the traditional appeal of the Monarch, it features a small seconds counter at 6 o'clock and has no date window.
Turning the clock over reveals the same duality, an identical mix of tradition and modernity. Inside beats a new version of the classic Kenissi-based movement, the new caliber MT5662-2U. As mentioned, this large (nearly 32mm) automatic movement now features a small seconds, but otherwise remains in line with the engines of the Black Bay, Ranger and Pelagos lines. This means a robust caliber (not a thin movement…) with a transverse balance bridge, a modern, anti-magnetic silicon hairspring and a variable inertia balance with a micro-regulating screw. This movement has a power reserve of 65 hours and is certified as a Master Chronometer.
The METAS Master Chronometer certification is one of the most demanding certifications available and covers the most important functional characteristics of a watch, including precision, resistance to magnetic fields (up to 15,000 Gauss), water resistance and power reserve. First certified by the COSC, it is then customized and tested as a full watch to meet Tudor's strict internal standards of -2/+4 seconds/day. The movement is also particularly visually appealing, as it features many more decorative techniques than you would normally find at Tudor. These include circular grain (perlage) on the motherboard, Geneva stripes on the upper bridges, and a new openwork rotor with an 18-karat gold inlay.
Finally, the Tudor Monarch is equipped with a newly developed bracelet. It consists of brushed H-shaped links paired with faceted, polished center links. The watch is attached to the wrist thanks to the brand's classic folding clasp with safety clasp and the practical T-Fit system, which allows fine adjustment of up to 8 mm in 5 positions without tools.
Thoughts, Availability & Price
As you may have guessed from this hands-on review, I'm particularly fond of the Tudor Monarch's design, as well as its slightly odd dial (the metal actually looks really cool). The overall quality of the watch is undeniable, be it the precision of the assembly, the details of the dial or the movement and its certifications. Overall, it's a fascinating and successful release that also brings some fresh air to a brand that has been associated with the Black Bay collection for too long. And while the brand is priced at the higher end, there isn't much on the competitive spectrum that can match everything Tudor has put into this watch.
If I had one comment it would be the actual diameter of the watch. Since we are currently seeing watches with diameters of 36-38mm, I still wonder what a 37mm Monarch would have been like. I feel like I would have liked it even more, even though the watch is still very comfortable to wear in its current condition.
The Tudor Monarch will gradually become available in boutiques and retailers as part of the permanent collection. The price is at 5,400 euros, 4,800 CHF or $5,875. Not cheap for the brand, but there isn't much on the market that can beat it either… For more information, visit tudorwatch.com.
https://monochrome-watches.com/2026-tudor-monarch-champagne-error-proof-dial-m2639w1a0u-0001-review-price/