Review – The Best of Ultra-Thin Watchmaking at Watches and Wonders 2026

We have said it in the past and I am not afraid to repeat myself; Ultra-thin watchmaking should be viewed as a real complication. Making ultra-thin movements is more than just numbers printed on a spec sheet, more than just making a case that's thinner than the norm. It is a true expertise, an area of watchmaking that requires ingenuity, innovation and miniaturization of components, sometimes to an extent unimaginable. While we didn't break any new records for thinness this year (Bulgari and Piaget focused on different themes), there may have been more ultra-thin watches than ever before. And that is something we can only welcome in our books. Here are some of the best ultra-thin watches we saw at Watches and Wonders 2026.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37

The undisputed king of ultra-thin models, Bulgari, was back at the show with a new member of its ever-growing, record-breaking Octo Finissimo collection. But this time it was not about introducing a new complication or making the watch even thinner, but about making one of its most emblematic models, the Octo Finissimo Automatic, more elegant and easier to wear. How? By reducing the diameter of the watch from 40mm to 37mm, which shouldn't be considered small given the shape of the case (which seems a little larger than the numbers suggest). As versatility increases, the case becomes slightly thicker at 6.45mm, but the extra millimeter compared to the 40mm version is largely offset by overall comfort on the wrist. And remember, this new Octo Finissimo 37 is not just a scaled down version, as it features its own new movement, the BVF100 caliber, which, despite its compactness, boasts an impressive 72-hour power reserve. And if you want something that also sounds great, there's also a 37mm minute repeater.

Further details about the Octo Finissimo Automatic 37 and the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater 37 can be found in the respective articles.

Cartier Santos-Dumont on the bracelet

More a design intention than a need to break records, Cartier's Santos-Dumont is still one of the thinnest watches in the brand's collection. Thinness is intentional here as part of the model's elegance, with a slim profile of just 7.3mm – a fact often overlooked throughout the case's overall history and design. This year, the ultra-thin Santos was back in three high-end versions, in yellow gold or platinum, paired with either a classic silver dial or an obsidian stone dial. One reason for the low height is the Piaget-based hand-wound movement inside, which is based on the 430P architecture. The big news for the model, however, is the introduction of metal bracelets with a multi-link profile, giving this Cartier classic an undeniably relaxed elegance.

For more details on the latest versions of the Santos-Dumont, check out this first look article.

Chopard LUC XPS Prussian Blue

While we would like to mention the absolutely gorgeous 1860 Blue dial in this article due to its compact case, guilloche dial and highly finished movement with an emphasis on slimness, the LUC XPS Prussian Blue is the one that makes it onto the list here. A successor to the Forest Green model released in 2024, this new version maintains the same 7.2mm thinness, sector layout for the dial and the pretty micro-rotor inside. One of the most affordable models in the LUC collection, it looks and feels great, although we would have liked a slightly more compact steel case, measuring 38mm in diameter instead of the current 40mm. Still, it's a really nice watch with an ultra-thin profile and an important movement inside, and at a pretty reasonable price.

For more details on this new edition of the LUC XPS, check out our handy article here.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometer

There is a lot to say about Jaeger's brand new Master Control Chronomètre collection. First of all, it is a completely new design from the brand, finally entering the integrated bracelet category. The watch is well made, especially the strap, not overly expensive and mostly refined. It also has a new precision certification (HPG) and has proven manufacture movements inside. One could possibly point out a certain lack of inspiration for the design, which seems a bit generic in some aspects (dial and bezel…), but I'll leave it to you to judge what you think about it. A point of particular interest for today's story is the thinness of the case, measured at 8.4mm by a diameter of 38mm. And it's not just the number on the data sheet that's impressive, but also the way the watch fits around the wrist and feels ultra-thin.

Further details about the new Master Control Chronomètre collection can be found here.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 38mm 5610P

One of the industry's most iconic watches of the last half century has just celebrated its 50th anniversary. In fact, the Nautilus turned 50 years old this year, and Patek Philippe is celebrating this milestone in a low-key, almost understated way. The three wristwatches (and also a very surprising pocket watch) all focus on the essentials, on what has made a Nautilus so recognizable since its launch: the shape of the case, the slimness of the profile, the pattern and color of the dial. Patek is all about time, about seconds, with a pure, understated aesthetic approach. Of the three versions, the most notable is the 5610P, a 38mm platinum version that pays homage to the early mid-sized versions. And thanks to the use of the venerable but ultra-thin Caliber 240 inside, this compact edition is just 6.9mm thick. Visually and on the wrist it is a real pleasure to wear.

For more details on the entire Nautilus 50th Anniversary collection, see our dedicated article here.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas automatic watch, ultra-thin

While Vacheron Constantin's Overseas collection has a lot to offer in terms of style and complications, something has clearly been missing in recent years, an important model to compete against the other two members of the Holy Trinity: an ultra-thin version with a time display, a direct competitor to the Royal Oak 16202 and the Nautilus 5811. The new Overseas marks the end of the legendary caliber 1120 (the basis of which also forms the main competitors of the Overseas drive). The Automatic Ultra-Thin 2500V has a strong case and a new in-house micro-rotor motor, the 2.4mm Caliber 2550. And the best part is probably the watch itself, a superb platinum version measuring 39.5mm in diameter and just 7.35mm thick that wears like a glove. Not to mention the beautiful salmon-colored dial and dateless display. However, the price is less attractive.

You can find all the details about the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin in our test report with video here.

Special Mention – Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery

Although Konstantin Chaykin did not participate in Watches and Wonders, he exhibited as AHCI last week. And while we're on the topic of ultra-thin, one can't help but mention the ThinKing Mystery, the latest version of the independent watchmaker's thinnest mechanical watch ever made. At just 1.65mm thick and designed using only traditional methods, the ThinKing is incredibly thin and one of the smartest mechanical watches in recent years. The new Mystery Edition adds a touch of playfulness with transparent panels for the control display and enhances the Wristmon effect. A true work of horological art that cannot go unnoticed.