A beautiful product is nothing without good packaging, and that also applies to watches. You can design the most stunning dial, back it up with an outstanding mechanical movement, but put it in a case that doesn't match it, and it's all ruined. And it's a real challenge for watchmakers and brands to do the right thing, because they believe that a watch must serve the purpose of a watch. Ergonomics plays a role, but so does ductility, rigidity, etc. But what if they met all of these criteria and could still be very creative in their design? What if they went further beyond the dial and the movement to create something provocative, something eye-catching? Sure, that means it probably won't appeal to everyone, but isn't that the whole point? Don't we all want something that touches us deeply, that evokes emotions? The six watches we've put together in this week's buying guide certainly lived up to expectations in terms of expressiveness and creativity!
Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire
Leave it to Hublot to divide a space. Over the years, the brand has lost none of its provocative character, and the MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire is a perfect embodiment of this. The round central case features an ice-like sapphire crystal bezel and a unique asymmetrical crystal above the dial. The play between materials, surfaces and reflections is a collision of technology and art. Made in collaboration with Daniel Arsham, this limited edition of 99 pieces uses the new HUB1205 Meca-10 movement, which displays hours, minutes, small seconds and a whopping 240-hour power reserve. The price is at 69,000 euros.
For more information, visit Hublot.com.
Quick facts – 42mm x 15.35mm – Titanium case, micro-blasted – Frosted sapphire crystal bezel – Spattered sapphire crystal front and back – 50m water resistance – Open dial construction – Arsham green Super-LumiNova – HUB1205 Meca-10, in-house – Hand-wound – Skeletal construction – 264 components – 240 hours Power reserve – Charmille grain in black Rubber strap with titanium folding clasp – limited to 99 pieces – 69,000 euros
David Candaux DC12 MaveriK
David Candaux himself can already be described as an outsider in the indie watchmaking scene with his unconventional ideas and complications. Slanted tourbillons, strongly curved dials, a retractable “magic crown” and so on. This is all very thought-provoking, but the DC12 MaveriK takes it up a notch. Not only does it have a very special double regulation system, but also a highly three-dimensional dial. This is all housed in a very flowing, curved titanium case, with a central barrel and two tab “blades” on either side. Since production is limited to an indefinite number, this one will set you back 98,000 francs before tax.
For more information, visit DavidCandaux.com.
Quick facts – 39.5mm x 11.7mm – Curved grade 5 titanium case, brushed and polished – Retractable “Magic Crown” – Sapphire crystal front and back – 50m water resistance – Molded multi-stage dial – Three-dimensional indices – Blued hands – Exposed double regulator – Caliber 30, in-house – Hand-wound – Flying planetary gear at 12 feet – 21,600 vibrations per hour – 58 hour power reserve – handmade rubber strap with Velcro fastener – limited production (unspecified) – 98,000 francs (excl. VAT)
Urwerk UR-150 Blue Scorpion
Urwerk is another one of those names that is known both internally and externally for its outstanding creativity. The brand's signature satellite system, which until recently was found in virtually every Urwerk, usually attracts attention, but the UR-150 Blue Scorpion's steel chassis is also quite special. Viewed from the side, it is an almost continuous curve with circular vertical and horizontal grooves and recessed sections on the flanks. The notches for the screws add even more detail and the large crown and noon finish it off nicely. This new version of the UR-150 obviously uses blue as its main color. It is limited to 50 pieces and has a price of 90,000 francs.
For more information, visit Urwerk.com.
Quick facts – 42.5 mm x 51 mm x 14.8 mm – Steel case, sand and micro-bead blasted – Circular, vertical and horizontal grooves – Sapphire crystal front and back – Crown at noon – Blue aluminum satellite system – Hiking/satellite hours, retrograde minutes – Blue minute track – UR-50.01, automatic – Vaucher base with in-house Module – 28,800 vibrations per hour – 43 hour power reserve – blue hybrid rubber strap with folding clasp – limited to 50 pieces – 90,000 francs
Holthinrich's Signature LAB Series 1.24
Holthinrichs comes from the Netherlands and uses architecture as the proverbial basis for his design DNA. Holthinrichs has created a very sculptural watchmaking niche for itself. The latest version, the Signature LAB Series 1.24, features a 3D printed titanium case with a uniquely shaped profile. The use of negative space, shadow play and flowing lines results in an eye-catching, light and very airy case. The tabs in particular, an integral part of the design, are exceptional. The dial references the colors of the brand's new atelier, housed in the historic Dutch Armory in Delft. This model uses a Sellita SW300 automatic with an in-house rotor and is limited to 79 pieces 5,900 euros excl. VAT
For more information, visit HolthinrichsWatches.com.
Quick facts – 38.5mm x 9.85mm – 46mm lug to lug – 3D printed Grade 5 titanium case – Molded lugs – Sapphire crystal front and back – Handcrafted copper dial with green leaf and gold leaf finish – Floating hour markers – Faceted skeleton hands – Sellita SW300, automatic – 28,800 vph – 42 hour power reserve – handmade patina rotor – cognac-colored rooster leather strap with 3D printed titanium pin buckle – limited to 79 pieces – 5,900 EUR (plus VAT)
Artya Purity Curvy HMS mirror
When you think of Artya, you cannot ignore the expressiveness of the brand. The Purity Curvy HMS Mirror is a tonneau-shaped timepiece available in various case materials, finishes and colors. But that's not all, as the flowing curves and lines of the case make it much more than just a tonneau watch. It really is one of those watches that you have to examine in real life to fully appreciate. Inside is an openwork hand-wound movement with the brand's signature “Stairway to Heaven” escapement, mounted over a highly polished back plate (optional!). Prices start at 27,900 CHF in titanium and up to go CHF 77,900 on the one hand made of NanoSapphire crystal.
For more information, visit Artya.com.
Quick facts – 38.5 mm x 43 mm x 12 mm – tonneau-shaped case in titanium, clear or NanoSapphire crystal – crown at noon – sapphire crystal front and back – openwork dial – hanging hour/minute dial with integrated small seconds – hand-wound movement developed with Télòs SA – 134 components – 28,800 vibrations per hour – Double barrels with 72 hour power reserve – large selection of bracelet options, with ArtyA pin buckle – limited to 99 pieces per case material – 27,900 CHF To CHF 77,900
Locomotive rental company
We conclude with the Credor Locomotive Green, the unconventional luxury sports watch in Genta design. The sculpted titanium case, whose centerpiece is a gently rounded hexagon, with a brushed and polished bezel that follows the same profile, is secured with six functional screws. The crown is playfully set at 4 inches and the bracelet appears to barely touch the case. From every angle you can discover new and interesting details. The green dial features a hexagonal pattern that repeats the shapes of the bracelet's inner links. Inside beats the CR01 caliber, which is exclusive to Credor. It costs retail 14,500 euros.
For more information, visit Credor.com.
Quick facts – 38.8 mm x 8.9 mm – High-intensity titanium case, brushed and polished – Hexagonal design – Molded bezel with functional screws – Sapphire crystal – Solid titanium back – 100 m water resistant – Green dial with hexagonal pattern – Applied luminous markers and hands – Caliber CR01, automatic – 28,800 vibrations per hour – 45 Hour Power Reserve – High Intensity Titanium Bracelet with Folding Clasp – GCCR997 – Not Limited Edition – 14,500 euros
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