It's no secret that Japan is becoming one of the most prolific centers for high-end independent watchmaking. Names like Hajime Asaoka (also behind Kurono Tokyo and Takano), Jiro Katayama (Otsuka Lotec), Daizoh Makihara and Norifumi Seki (Quiet Club) have become incredibly important in recent years. Another name not to forget is Naoya Hida, a brand founded in 2012 that focuses on delivering ultra-classic watches with vintage Calatrava inspiration (for most models) and a subtle Japanese touch in execution. For 2026, the brand is introducing seven new designs alongside three models carried over from last year, including a spectacular new chronograph with a vintage movement.
From left to right and top to bottom: NH TYPE1E, NH TYPE2C-2, NH TYPE3B, NH TYPE3B-3, NH TYPE3B-4, NH TYPE5B, NH TYPE5B-1, NH TYPE6A, NH TYPE7A and NH TYPE8A
Production of the Naoya Hida in 2026, still very limited in number, will focus on ten references, including three carried over from last year (NH TYPE3B, NH TYPE3B-3 and NH TYPE6A Perpetual Calendar). This leaves us with no less than seven new designs, most of which are based on existing, optimized watches – such as the rectangular TYPE5A or the TYPE3 Moonphase – as well as two completely new watches that are sure to turn heads, a very compact Calatrava-style model with a new (and visible) movement and a classic 1940s chronograph powered by restored vintage movements.
Naoya Hida's first chronograph, the NH TYPE7A
Before delving into Naoya Hida's new collection, we cannot skip the most important novelty: the NH TYPE7A, the brand's first chronograph. And to get straight to the point: it looks fantastic… Obviously it is directly inspired by some of the great classics, in particular the Patek reference 1463 Tasti Tondi. The idea of a chronograph with a vintage movement was already conceived when Hida founded his brand in 2012, but limited experience and concerns about sourcing spare parts prevented him from doing so. However, a few years ago, Hida acquired a significant number of vintage movements, including some iconic Valjoux 23(236) chronograph calibers.
The result is now alive: a 36mm chronograph made from 904L steel, just 11.7mm thick. The design is classic, with a concave polished bezel and a guilloche motif on the pushers (typical of the Tasti Tondi watches). Crafted from nickel silver, the dial features laser-engraved logos and tracks as well as hand-engraved Breguet numerals filled with synthetic Japanese lacquer (cashew). The hands are made of solid yellow gold for the time and heat-blued steel for the chronograph.
Under the closed back are restored vintage Valjoux 236 hand-wound chronograph movements with classic column wheel and horizontal clutch architecture. Worn by Jean Rousseau on a Granite calfskin, the Naoya Hida NH TYPE7A Chronograph is limited to 10 pieces between 2026 and 2027 and the watch is priced at 5,300,000 JPY or $38,300.
The new 31mm NH TYPE 8A
In addition to the chronograph, the other all-new model for Naoya Hida's 2026 collection is a watch that looks heavily to the past and is directly inspired by the original Calatrava 96 and Breguet 3210, including in terms of proportions. In fact, the Naoya Hida NH TYPE8A measures only 31mm in diameter, which was a classic at the time but is considered small today. And that's exactly why Hida developed the TYPE8A… The development of the Type5A's movement led him to design a small movement that positioned the small seconds well away from the center of the dial. This led to the creation of this small, ultra-fine model made of 904L steel with a thickness of 8.9 mm and a screwed base.
Underneath the sapphire crystal is an engraved nickel silver dial with Breguet numerals, small seconds at 6 o'clock and blued steel hands – everything, as always, excellently executed. On the other side, also with sapphire crystal, is the new Caliber 2326SS, a 23.5mm hand-wound movement that beats at 3 Hz and stores a 38-hour power reserve. Although Hida does not specify the origin of the base of the movement, it shares many similarities with the architecture of the Peseux 7001. With a production of 20 pieces between 2026 and 2027, the price for the Naoya Hida NH TYPE8A is 3,200,000 JPY or $23,100.
A revised classic, the NH TYPE1E
The Type1 was first presented as a prototype in 2018 and was launched in 2019 as the first production model by Naoya Hida. This year it is undergoing further development. The fifth edition of the model, it now features a new 36mm case, giving the watch an even more sophisticated yet confident look. Although it may seem similar to the NH Type1D at first glance, the differences become clear when compared directly. The redesigned sapphire crystal now features a more pronounced curved profile, increasing depth and dimension. As a result, the case thickness has been increased from 9.8 mm to 10.9 mm, which further enhances the visual impact of the watch.
This watch is still powered by the hand-wound caliber 3019SS, based on chronograph-less Valjoux 7750 ebauches that have been heavily redesigned. With an expected production of 25 units next year, the NH TYPE1E is priced at 2,700,000 JPY or $19,500.
The NH TYPE2C-2, the first porcelain dial
The NH TYPE2 series debuted in 2020 with the NH TYPE2A as a counterpart to the TYPE1, which featured a hand-wound movement with central seconds, the caliber 3020CS (same revised Valjoux base). Then came several editions, such as the NH TYPE2C and Lettercutter versions. The steel case of this new variant, still 37 mm in size, is classic with a domed sapphire crystal and a screwed back. The dial is new and is made of porcelain for the first time. The result is a glossy, milky white dial with clear markings and numerals, enhanced by hand-painted indices and logos.
Production of the NH TYPE2C-2 is expected to be around 10 pieces over the next 12 months and the watch is priced at 2,850,000 JPY or $20,600.
The NH TYPE3B-4 in Art Nouveau style
The NH TYPE3B-4 is the first NH TYPE3 series (a model with a moon phase complication) to feature hand-engraved decoration on the entire case surface, except for the bezel and caseback. Made of 18K yellow gold, it follows the same idea as the NH TYPE1D-3 in 2024, but goes even further. This year's design motif is Art Nouveau, a style less common in watchmaking than Art Deco. Finally, gold leaf was applied to the relief-shaped Arabic numerals. Production is expected to be only 2 pieces next year, with a price of 15,000,000 JPY or $108,300.
The NH TYPE5B, the rectangular watch refined
A part of him. In the 2024 collection, Naoya Hida introduced a brand new model housed in a rectangular case: the TYPE5A. This year, this compact yet impactful model is slightly updated with subtle case adjustments for a more refined and harmonious design. The dial design has been updated with a more classic and angular shape, more engraved numerals and larger hands. Additionally, the lugs on each side have been shortened by 1mm, while the stepped section along the side of the case has been widened by 0.3mm. Minor updates that could make a bigger impact in the metal.
This year 10 pieces will be produced, the price is 3,700,000 JPY or $26,700.
The NH TYPE5B-1
Last but not least, a second version of the NH TYPE5B is coming onto the market this year, but with an acrylic crystal instead of a sapphire crystal, as was the case with the NH TYPE5A-1 in 2025. It benefits from the same changes to the case as the watch above and differs in its dial, here with Breguet numerals. It is expected that only 10 pieces will be made this year, the price is 3,700,000 JPY or $26,700.
Naoya Hida's entire 2026 collection will be available via the brand's official website from Monday, May 18, 2026 (10 a.m. Japan time) to Thursday, May 21, 2026 (10 a.m. Japan time). For more information, visit naoyahidawatch.com.
https://monochrome-watches.com/naoya-hida-2026-collection-incl-chronograph-valjoux-23-type-7a-introducing-price/