Independent watchmaking has always been a melting pot of creativity and working off the beaten path, and that's exactly why we love this genre so much. From industry legends and trailblazers like Daniel Roth, Urwerk and MB&F to the newest generation of stars, the indie watchmaking scene is truly unique. And although we sometimes think we've seen it all, the next great watch is always just around the corner. Hot on the heels of Geneva Watch Week (Watches & Wonders and all the other things on display in Geneva!) we thought it would be a good idea to see what's out there and go through some of the best new watches from independent makers.
Resistance type 11
From the beginning, Ressence did things differently. Quite different because it is based on a unique display of orbital displays that are constantly moving. Overall, the collection is as coherent as possible and offers a wide range of shapes, indications, colors and details. The latest is the Type 11, where Ressence moves away from the ETA base calibers on which the unique ROCS system is built and now launches the brand's first proprietary movement. Designed by Ressence and produced by Concepto, one of the biggest advantages is the extended power reserve of 60 hours. The Type 11 is made of grade 5 titanium and is available with a dial in Pine (green), Sky (blue) or Latte (cream). Three eccentric satellites tell the time, and a clever ball bearing system shows you the remaining energy level of the mainspring. Deliveries are expected to begin in May this year and the Type 11 will be available in retail 23,000 francs.
For more information, see our introductory story here.
Laurent Ferrier sports traveler
Laurent Ferrier combines two sides of his independent watchmaking craftsmanship in a single and highly desirable timepiece called the Sport Traveler. The result combines the style of the brilliant Sport Auto with the brand's practical GMT display from the Classic Traveler and works wonders. The case made of titanium is of course slightly larger than the Sport Auto mentioned above, but is still just as comfortable to wear. The pushers on the left allow you to adjust the dual time display in hourly increments in either direction, allowing you to effortlessly travel through time zones and adjust your watch accordingly. The dial is pure Laurent Ferrier; reserved and yet full of character. The anthracite base gets a subtle light gray crosshair, with green Super-LumiNova in the Assegai-shaped hands and applied markings. On the back, you have an unobstructed view of the new LF275.01 caliber, which replaces the natural escapement used in the Classic Traveler with a more robust Swiss anchor escapement to suit the globe-trotting lifestyle of the Sport Traveller. The price is 61,000 francs.
For more information, see our detailed video review here.
Rexhep Rexhepi rrchf Chronograph Flyback
Rexhep Rexhepi, considered one of the most talented independent watchmakers of the last decade, recently unveiled another eye-catcher, the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. It's not often that we see a completely in-house developed chronograph movement from an independent watchmaker. So you can imagine our excitement! The new RRCHF features a platinum or rose gold case measuring 38.8mm x 9.7mm with a stepped bezel, rounded rectangular pushers and elongated curved lugs. The dial is either blue-green Grand Feu enamel for the platinum watch or black Grand Feu enamel for the rose gold RRCHF, with semi-transparent inserts for the subdials. The time is read in an offset subdial for hours and minutes at the top, with a running seconds display at the bottom left. With the flyback chronograph you have a 30 minute counter and a central chronograph seconds hand at the bottom right. As with pretty much everything Rexhep makes, the symmetry on both sides of the watch is striking and the workmanship is absolutely superb. The price is at 150,000 francs regardless of the case material.
For more information, see our handy test report here.
The Bethune DB25Vxs Silver Moon
Although unmistakably a De Bethune even from across the room, the brand's new DB25Vxs Silver Moon offers a renewed and unique interpretation of the classic moon phase display. Positioned at midday, the spherical display shows you the light and dark sides of the moon as it progresses through its 29-day(-ish) cycle, set in a star-studded blued titanium base. The central section is decorated with a charming barleycorn or grain d'orge guilloche motif, and the outer ring has a characteristic minute track with two numerals in five-minute increments and three-block markers in between. The large hour numerals are slightly tilted, which makes the design even more attractive. The time is indicated by two gold hands in the middle, and that's about it. Turning the watch over, you can see more of De Bethune's signature style, with a blued titanium balance wheel, two barrels and plenty of decoration. All of this is housed, as we've come to expect, in a fully polished titanium case with integrated hollowed-out lugs. This one will set you back 82,000 francs excl. VAT
For more information, see our introductory story here.
Sylvain Pinaud Tourbillon 30 seconds
After his expressive chronograph debut in 2018, independent French bronze watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud followed up in 2021 with the beautiful Origin. Earning recognition from his peers, the GPHG, and even more so from collectors around the world, Pinaud returns to the spotlight with the new Tourbillon 30-Second. Using the Origin as the basis for its latest creation, the 30-second tourbillon is regulated by a tourbillon escapement positioned at 6′. But it's not just about adding the tourbillon, because where most only spin once a minute, this one does twice as fast, hence the name. The movement also has a zero reset mechanism, which makes setting the watch to the exact second a breeze. The offset dial has a sector-like layout, with the seconds display cut into it at 9 inches. The movement itself reveals much of its inner workings through the large, openwork upper bridge, which looks quite magnificent. You can see the back of the tourbillon, the chassis, the double barrels and much more! Only 30 pieces will be made in three editions, priced at 180,000 francs.
For more information, see our introductory story here.
Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12.59 First Edition
Since the brand first mastered the phenomenon of resonance, we've been fascinated by what they do with it. With the new Minute Repeater Resonance 12.59 First Edition they have once again outdone themselves by presenting layer after layer of an already very complex watch. The openwork dial reveals the two oscillators and the resonance clutch spring in the lower half and is surrounded by four gongs that are struck with hammers at midday to indicate the time when necessary. And best of all, it features a selectable 12:59 party mode, allowing for the longest hitting sequence possible. It's also smaller, thinner and more refined than previous editions of the Minute Repeater Resonance, which is always nice. Only 25 examples of these “watchmaking lessons on the wrist” will be produced and the price is set at 390,000 francs.
For more information, see our handy test report here.
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