Some watches impress immediately, others only show themselves slowly. Independent Japanese watchmaker Hajime Asaoka's Tsunami looks disarmingly simple, especially at first glance: a compact, time-only watch with classic proportions, a kind of high-end Japanese Calatrava, as elegant and discreet as it gets. Spend time with it and it opens up and becomes a perfect expression of independent watchmaking, shaped by one man's vision, his discipline and, to some extent, his refusal to conform to convention.
This latest version of the Tsunami, the Édition Blanche, is a refined interpretation of the model introduced around 2013 and a personal, almost philosophical expression of what a perfect mechanical watch that only tells time should be. Not Asaoka's most complex watch, but probably his most representative.
The manufacturer
Hajime Asaoka is a self-taught watchmaker, now a member of the AHCI, with a background in product design. He developed his craft through the application of first principles, books, machines and iteration. In his Tokyo workshop, he produces a handful of watches each year, mostly made in-house, each reflecting his vision of watchmaking.
Asaoka is also the founder of Precision Watch Tokyo (PWT), the company with which he develops more affordable brands such as Kurono Tokyo, which focuses on man's refined design with outsourced movements at affordable prices, and Otsuka Lotec, led by Jiro Katayama. PWT has created an ecosystem around Asaoka's work, but his own name is reserved for his most extraordinary pieces.
Like few independent watchmakers, Asaoka does not produce watches as a brand. He builds them as a craftsman. Production remains very, very low, often just a few pieces per year, and each watch gives the impression of direct involvement of a watchmaker. You can call it personal watchmaking, and at the heart of this work is the tsunami, Hajime Asaoka's trademark. The watchmaker attended the AHCI exhibition during Geneva Watch Week earlier this month and we were lucky enough to experience the latest Tsunami release in the watchmaker's presence. An uplifting experience, here is our impression.
The case
Read the specs and the Tsunami Édition Blanche will seem like a modest watch. About 37mm in diameter, relatively slim, compact and portable like so many others on the market. But what good are numbers if they don't tell the whole story?
The Tsunami case has always been understated, with smooth polished and brushed surfaces, a beautifully graduated bezel, slim lugs and a comfortable fluted crown. In this updated version, the design appears a little more resolved and up-to-date. Edges appear sharper, transitions cleaner, proportions more balanced. Still confident in its implementation, nothing excessive, nothing unnecessary.
It fits snugly on the wrist and almost decreases in thickness, but maintains a satisfying presence thanks to its clear shape. This is not a sports watch, not a formal garment; Is it a daily? It may well be a watch that can handle everyday life without feeling out of place, but let's face it, a certain level of sophistication is required.
The dial
Tsunami has always had a pretty strong graphic identity with Art Deco influences. Sector layouts, contrasting tones, layered structure. This was especially true of the aptly named Art Deco Edition, which came out in 2024. This new version retains the foundation but offers a completely different execution. Quieter, slimmer, but no less appealing.
The new dial of the Tsunami Édition Blanche looks clearer, more integrated and a logical, solid whole within the updated overall concept. Elements such as the minute display, the chapter ring and the small seconds appear better integrated and less segmented. The contrast between the central part with vertical stripes, the chapter ring and its Breguet numerals and the small seconds display is still present, but is handled more subtly. The light plays differently on the surface, revealing elements rather than relying solely on color separation. Don't get me wrong, the previous versions, and there were a few, were no less impressive and expressive, but if you have a personal preference for white dials, this new version is something special.
Regarding white, Asaoka specifically mentions: “While most manufacturers typically specify 'white' without considering the material itself, I research and select the pigment at an elemental level to ensure both precise coloring and long-lasting durability. The dial coating involves mixing pigment into resin. For this dial, I used a higher proportion of pigment than usual. By combining this formulation and the dial painting method, both of which I developed myself, the result is a particularly solid white and a Finish that resists discoloration over time.”
The typography remains distinctly Asaoka, precise, never overly decorative. Each number is in the watchmaker's original font. “I individually hand-lettered the master artwork for each numeral. Based on my extensive experience studying calligraphy as a design professional, I incorporated this expertise into the typography of this watch,” he explains.
The syringe hands retain their sculptural (Empire State-like) quality and capture the light in a way that aids legibility. In summary, it can be said that what stands out above all is the sense of balance. Some previous Tsunami models could appear bold and almost too graphic in their contrasts. This Tsunami Édition Blanche version feels calmer; a calmer wave.
The movement
The movement, visible through the sapphire crystal case back, makes Asaoka's watchmaking approach almost tangible. Presence, proportions and mechanical expression. The unmistakable, oversized balance wheel (15 mm diameter) dominates the movement. It beats at a slow speed of 2.5Hz, giving you time to observe the back and forth motion. Next to it, in contrast to the overall austerity of the movement, is a large and richly decorated gold wheel with curved spokes that look like tentacles and are made to a high level of decoration – this is what the master calls the Tako wheel.
The architecture around it is open and deliberate. Bridges are shaped to provide a framework rather than a hiding place. The finishing is done entirely by hand and has visible stripes, angulations and beading. It may not aim for the over-polished perfection of the most traditional Swiss masters, but it has clarity and honesty, something equally compelling, as each component exists for a reason and that reason is visible.
Thoughts
Despite its rarity and craftsmanship, the Tsunami has always been a watch to wear, and that holds true here too. The size, elegant profile and understated design result in a watch that feels natural in everyday use. And that is one of the most surprising aspects of Asaoka's work. For a piece made by hand in such limited quantities (this edition is already sold out) and with such attention to detail, no special occasions are required. It calls for regular company. The price… $30,000. Certainly not accessible, but not out of place either.
However, the personal watchmaking aspect also comes with an emotional component. Owning a tsunami is not just about the object itself, but also about the connection to its creator. You buy someone’s work. Only independent watchmaking can offer this, and it is rare. For more information, visit www.hajimeasaoka.com.
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